Climbs 25
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 10m a.s.l
Faces E

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Moving round the crux © BelayBunney

Crag features

This elusive and diminutive crag has climbs on an odd mix of quality dolerite and limestone. The trad lines are deceptively hard and fingery and they top out into steep ferns making it a good idea to pre-place a belay rope. Most will go there for the excellent DWS.

The trad is virtually non-tidal whilst the DWS requires half-tide (the starts and cave section get submerged at high tide). Avoid strong easterlies.

Approach notes

Turn off the Babbacome Road 200m downhill from The Range at a sign for Anstey's Cove. Park in the large car park and walk across the lane to the signed Hope's Nose path. Continue past a rock outcrop, a path on the left with steps and then a brick shelter. On reaching a path on the left which doubles back, continue for a further 20m and then take a smaller path on the left which winds down to the northern promontory of Black Head.

Descend here for the DWS or follow the path along the cliff top past an apple tree belay to locate a steep roped descent beyond a large sycamore.

Early September, 2015: the final bit of path from the headland itself to the down climb was very overgrown. Long trousers (or even better, a pair of garden shears) advisable.
andy_pemberton - 07/Sep/15
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