UKC

Climbs 64
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 377m a.s.l
Faces W

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Curious sheep © yossarian714

Crag features

A disjointed edge of Windgather-like grit on Whaley Moor/Black Hill, with potential for many quality boulder problems in the lower grades. Some sections are just about high enough for routes. There are also some small quarries, although the potential in these is limited.

No doubt people have been climbing on these rocks for many years, but as far as I know this (2018) is the first time that specific problems have been recorded. Please feel free to contribute more, or to let me know if there has been anything recorded previously.

There are topos in the photos sections.

Approach notes

Park in the large layby opposite the Rocks Farm drive on Mudhurst Lane. Walk north up the main road and turn right onto a footpath on the same side as the farm. Follow this up to the top of the hill and turn right joining the main path that runs across the top of the crag.

Walk past the fence line that seperates the Farmers land with left buttress on to the open access land on before descending down to the crag.

Restricted Access

Most of the crag is on open access land, but the left-hand end, where some of the problems that have been recorded so far can be found, is technically just outside it. However, the landowner seems to have no objection to climbing.

 

UPDATE - June 2020
The farmer asked, polietly but firmly, for me to leave when I was climbing on the Far left section of the crag.
The farmer may have turned a blind eye in the past but in the present climate he's not wanting us on his land.
It's advised is to respect that for now in the hope of building better access rights with him in the future.

Ensure you don't access via his drive as well please. There is no direct access up to the crag from footpath that passes the farm without going through his field.
Lets keep him happy for the moment.

I believe that the rocks directly above the farm house are on private land, the rocks over the style (right of the house) are on access land so free to climb. As far as access goes. We walked left diagonally just after the buildings and got shouted at, it seems this isn't a footpath. I found the best and quickest way to the rocks is turn right just after the buildings, follow the fence to the kissing gate, once through this you are on access land so follow the faint path/sheep track directly up to the rock.
marktrik - 13/Jun/20
I visited the crag today, and whilst I was climbing the farmer shouted up from his house to get back on the footpath. I read somewhere that although part of the crag was in the top of his field he was okay with people climbing. Apparently this has changed which would mean there is no access to all problems left of boomerang heel as you look uphill to the crag. Something to bear in mind if you're climbing there.
Jakewebb72 - 09/Jun/20
A pleasant venue, especially for a beginner boulderer looking local.
Jake Young - 31/Mar/20
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Climbs at this crag

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