UKC

Climbs 64
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 377m a.s.l
Faces W

View Stats

Curious sheep © yossarian714

Crag features

A disjointed edge of Windgather-like grit on Whaley Moor/Black Hill, with potential for boulder problems in the lower grades. Some sections are just about high enough for routes. There are also some small quarries, although the potential is more limited. Likely climbed on before but (as of 2018) these are the first specific records of the problems. Contributions and corrections welcome. Topos in the photos sections.

Approach notes

Park in the large layby opposite the Rocks Farm drive on Mudhurst Lane. Walk north up the main road and turn right onto a footpath on the same side as the farm. Follow this to the top of the hill and turn right onto the path along the top of the crag. Walk past the fence line seperating the farmer's land (with the Far Left buttress) on to the open access land, before descending to the crag. Do not access the crag by the farm track - there is no direct access from the track passing the farm.

Access Advice

Most of the crag is open access land, but the left-hand end is just outside. [June 2020] the farmer has asked climbers to leave the Far Left and doesn't currently want people on the land. Please respect this in the hope of better access rights in the future. 

I believe that the rocks directly above the farm house are on private land, the rocks over the style (right of the house) are on access land so free to climb. As far as access goes. We walked left diagonally just after the buildings and got shouted at, it seems this isn't a footpath. I found the best and quickest way to the rocks is turn right just after the buildings, follow the fence to the kissing gate, once through this you are on access land so follow the faint path/sheep track directly up to the rock.
marktrik - 13/Jun/20
I visited the crag today, and whilst I was climbing the farmer shouted up from his house to get back on the footpath. I read somewhere that although part of the crag was in the top of his field he was okay with people climbing. Apparently this has changed which would mean there is no access to all problems left of boomerang heel as you look uphill to the crag. Something to bear in mind if you're climbing there.
Jakewebb72 - 09/Jun/20
A pleasant venue, especially for a beginner boulderer looking local.
Jake Young - 31/Mar/20
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Name Grade Stars Type Logs Partner Ascents
Please Login or Register to log routes or add them to your wishlist
These climbs you have climbed clean.
These climbs you have climbed by seconding or top-roping.
These climbs you have Dogged.
These climbs you Did not Finish.
Climbs are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate. Climbs can't be verified by a crag moderator, and they need more information to confirm it. Climbs are no longer climbable.

Moderators Updates to this page are checked by a UKC volunteer steveriley

Loading Notifications...