Loading Notifications...

Climbs 44
Rocktype Culm
Altitude Tidal
Faces NW

View Stats

Climbers on Blackchurch Rock © EddieBauer

Crag features

An area featuring the "delights" of XS routes (up to 300ft) featuring some splendid crumbly rubbish and imaginary protection. But also features the fantastic and more normal pleasures of slab climbs such as Sacre Coeur (E2 5b) and Jamaican Dub (E3 5c) - which make it well worth turning up.

Approach notes

Tidal on some parts.

Approach feasible from Clovelly and then walk along the coastal footpath. Alternatively, park at Brownsham Farm (SS 286 259) and walk (1mi) through woods to the old limekilns at Mouth Mill, by the crag.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Android and iOS devices.


Guidebooks

West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UK’s most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfax’s award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UK’s most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
More info
More Guidebooks:
South West Climbs Volume 2 (2014)
Javu website new routes

Out of print:
A short video of a grand day out on the amazing sea stack formation of Blackchurch Rock on the Culm Coast near Hartland in North Devon. There are a number of most excellent routes (including 2 nice VS's at either end) on this fantastic foreshore pinnacle, complete with two walk-through tunnels, but the jewel in the crown is the superlative and most photogenic E2 5b/c "Sacre Coeur" first climbed by the legend Pat Littlejohn in 1974. The route is rightly described by UKC and Rockfax as "a majestic pitch of flawless quality" and a super-classic in the South West of the UK: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5CS8NokZEr4 All constructive feedback or comments welcome and hopefully it may inspire a few folks with sacred hearts and strong calves to climb on Blackchurch Rock and visit this beautiful part of the UK!
BALD EAGLE - 12/Jun/14
Left side of main cliff, Savage God etc, all looked absolutely horrendous, green and yellow slime and lichen, vegetated...cap off to Mr Littlejohn...I can't imagine anybody seeing those routes and wanting to do them...I wonder how many ascents they have had?
HappyTrundler - 24/Jul/11
The Main Cliff looked well grim!
The Pylon King - 30/Aug/07
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Beta
Name Grade Stars Type Logs Partner Ascents
These climbs you have climbed clean.
These climbs you have climbed by seconding or top-roping.
These climbs you have Dogged.
These climbs you Did not Finish.
Climbs are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate. Climbs can't be verified by a crag moderator, and they need more information to confirm it. Climbs are no longer climbable.

Moderators Updates to this page are checked by a UKC volunteer Mark Kemball