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Report of a lose bolt June 2023 - “One of the staples wobbles. As looking out at the sea it is the top left staple on the flat top of rock. This is directly above the iron ladder which gives access from Sharbutts Quarry to Sacred Angel Area”

from 14/06/2023

The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.

The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!   

 

Rockfax Description
Head up left to an alcove and then climb the crack above. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Climb up and left into the alcove then tackle the big crack to the break. The last move isn't obvious. Some friable rock.

Adam Perrett 22/06/20 22/Jun/2020.

Ticklists

Portland

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User Date Notes
Marti999 14 Apr, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Worrying in mid section. Not a good climb for risk
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Worrying in mid section. Not a good climb for risk

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Blacknor North

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Voting
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 4
Votes cast 10
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
DNF
Dogged
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
Slings Shot

Grade: 5a ***
(Blacknor North)

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