Restricted Access
The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.
The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
2022 Peregrine nesting in Blacknor Far South 'Punter's Way Area' Restrictions apply to all routes south of ' In on the Killtaker ' extending to all of the accessable routes from there.
At present there area no other active restriction along the Blacknor sections of the west coast.
Rockfax Description
The long lower wall gains an overhang. Make a powerful pull over the overhang and continue up grooves and ribs to the top. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Climb through the interestingly featured lower wall, gain the roof by use of the leftward leaning side pull feature, make a powerful leftward rock over on high feet and small sharp holds.
The a mid height break leads up and left to the grooves arete requires a committing throw for meet the anchor.
James Pymn & Connor Rolfe 22/May/2021.
Ticklists
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Jordan.Frank.Rice | 23 Jul, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: This route is relatively new and therefore loose rock can be a serious issue if the actual line is deviated from. I was constantly peppered with dust and eventually whilst avoiding the actual line, my leader dislodged a large potentially lethal clump of debris. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: This route is relatively new and therefore loose rock can be a serious issue if the actual line is deviated from. I was constantly peppered with dust and eventually whilst avoiding the actual line, my leader dislodged a large potentially lethal clump of debris. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Blacknor North
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Horny Lil' Devil
Grade: 7a ***
(Lulworth)