UKC

Climbs 170
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 65m a.s.l
Faces W

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Jess Carr making the exposed traverse of the upper overhangs on The Ghost (E3) at the Main Cliff, Bosigran © Richard Pollard

Crag features

Bosigran is where many climbers get their first taste of Cornish granite and is perhaps the West Country's best known sea cliff. Bosigran's reputation for superb routes on perfect rock has been widely publicised and the cliff has been at the heart of developments on Cornwall's granite throughout the decades since its first climbs were established early in the 20th century. The position of the cliff is majestic, projecting out into the sea above a remote and rocky cove, and for the most part its base is high above the sea. The cliff's elevation makes it a reliable venue to get something done if the tides are not ideal for accessing other cliffs, or the sea is rough. The routes are simply stunning, predominantly multi-pitch and will interest those looking for long, lower and mid-grade climbs.

The conditions at Bosigran are, on the whole, a delight and you can often climb here when other crags are 'out' due to tides or rough seas. The Main Cliff gets the afternoon sun, and dries pretty quickly after rain. Seepage does occur after prolonged rainfall and the rock can be very slick in the morning, before the sun has crept around. There is little shelter from the sun, wind, or rain though if required.

Approach notes

Take the B3306 St. Ives - Pendeen road to the prominent ruined mine buildings of Carn Galver and park in the National Trust car park adjacent to them. Follow the path that heads seaward, initially through bushes and then fields, and over a couple of granite stiles. The path from Carn Galver mine meets the coast path at some remains of old buildings (5 minutes). From this viewpoint, the jagged crest of Commando Ridge is easily seen to the left and the outline of the emerging Bosigran Main Cliff is ahead.

Bosigran seems to be currently infested with ticks (in the last two weekend I know four people who have picked them up).
andrewmc - 15/Jun/15
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