An incredibly steep and pumpy climb that wends its withering way up a series of well-protected cracks in the centre of the wall. Start on top of a massive boulder at the base of the abseil. From the boulder, climb a thin crack to the low horizontal break. Move left and climb the accommodating crack-line rightwards on good holds until a move up left gains a small right leaning overhang. Move out right up the wall via a thin crack and then up to belay on the abseil rope where the angle drops back. Pull out on the abseil rope to finish. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
A better description would be: From the boulder, climb a thin crack to the low horizontal break. Move left and climb the accommodating crack-line rightwards on good holds to a jug in black rock. Step right and then up until a move up and left gains a jug at the base of a slightly overhung niche. Climb into the niche and then step right to follow a right trending crack/flake into the righthand niche and then up to belay on the abseil rope where the angle drops back. Pull out on the abseil rope to finish.
Note: the line drawn on the photo in the 2015 (or is it 2014?) CC Swanage guide is, in my view, wrong (following it makes the route much harder!). The description in the guide is more accurate, however at the overhung niche you step right rather than climb the crack above you (as suggested by the guidebook). Oh, and the pre-placed rope is a must, unless you also take an ice-axe!
FA. Martin Crocker 11/Jun/1983.
Top five E5s, Great Wall Climbs of the UK, Littlejohn South West Climbs, Trad climbs for sport climbers, West Country Climbs, Swanage wild pumpfests, CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain, Ultimate E5 ticklist
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