UKC

Restricted Access

Bearacleave Wood is owned by the National Trust and contains some fantastic quality bouldering with something for everyone. Access problems have arisen recently at this and other bouldering areas on Dartmoor due mainly to excessive cleaning of boulders, but also some other issues. Please follow the Respect the Rock code as well as the following site specific access code of conduct:  

  • No new development - there are in excess of 700 exisiting lines across Bovey Woods as a whole and further development would mean more cleaning and removal of important mosses and lichens. This is a real concern to the landowners and continued development and new cleaning could result in loss of access.

  • Keep cleaning to a minimum. A completely clean boulder might look good to a climber, but to the landowner it looks a lot like environmental damage. Keep individual holds clean, don't strip entire faces of vegetation.

  • Chalk really stands out in the environment, so remove as much as possible from the rock before leaving a problem.

  • Please don't use this area for lantern sessions (night bouldering) - this has been a contributing factor in the developing access concerns of the landowner.

  • Take your litter home with you as well as any other litter in the area. This includes things like pieces of finger tape which can be easily forgotten.

Unbalanced and hard for a move or two. On the small boulder immediately opposite Full Length Feature. Sit start under the nose of rock on the right hand side of the boulder (footholds out right are 'in'). Make hard moves initially to good holds and traverse the top of the block relatively easily.

Tom Rainbow, Paul Hadley.

Feedback

User Date Notes
chudders1 27 Mar, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Not sure where to start at V4 but a very pleasant problem at V0 starting from obvious blocky hold under nose
βeta?
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βeta: Not sure where to start at V4 but a very pleasant problem at V0 starting from obvious blocky hold under nose

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High f6B+
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Route of Interest
Earl Grey Arete Sitter

Grade: f6B ***
(Hound Tor)

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