Restricted Access
Bearacleave Wood is owned by the National Trust and contains some fantastic quality bouldering with something for everyone. Access problems have arisen recently at this and other bouldering areas on Dartmoor due mainly to excessive cleaning of boulders, but also some other issues. Please follow the Respect the Rock code as well as the following site specific access code of conduct:
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No new development - there are in excess of 700 exisiting lines across Bovey Woods as a whole and further development would mean more cleaning and removal of important mosses and lichens. This is a real concern to the landowners and continued development and new cleaning could result in loss of access.
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Keep cleaning to a minimum. A completely clean boulder might look good to a climber, but to the landowner it looks a lot like environmental damage. Keep individual holds clean, don't strip entire faces of vegetation.
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Chalk really stands out in the environment, so remove as much as possible from the rock before leaving a problem.
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Please don't use this area for lantern sessions (night bouldering) - this has been a contributing factor in the developing access concerns of the landowner.
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Take your litter home with you as well as any other litter in the area. This includes things like pieces of finger tape which can be easily forgotten.
Rockfax Description
A fine right-to-left traverse combining slabby with steep climbing. Start at the far right of the slab, follow the break to the arete and then blast across steep ground to finish up the left side of the short left arete. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Traverse the break on the front of the boulder, around the nose (keeping your feet low - no stepping up for a cheeky rest) and continue along the steep side on big, smooth holds until a hard crux rounding the far arete. Rock up to finish once around the arete. Finishing early reduces the grade to f5+/6a.
Tom Rainbow.
Ticklists
Bovey Woods , The Art of the Granite Crab , Bovey Woods 3 Stars (f7A & Under)
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Albut | 18 Apr, 2022 |
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βeta: Wobbly block 1/3 of the way along now gone. Doesn't really change the climb much. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Wobbly block 1/3 of the way along now gone. Doesn't really change the climb much. |
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| jake7 | 12 Sep, 2021 |
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βeta: Flat low hold towards the end is also wobbly | βeta? | |
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βeta: Flat low hold towards the end is also wobbly |
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| cornishben | 24 Aug, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: look out for the wobbly jug 1/3 way along second half | βeta? | |
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βeta: look out for the wobbly jug 1/3 way along second half |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Bovey Woods
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Yew Geste (Right Finish)
Grade: f6B ***
(Manaton Rocks)