UKC

Restricted Access

Bearacleave Wood is owned by the National Trust and contains some fantastic quality bouldering with something for everyone. Access problems have arisen recently at this and other bouldering areas on Dartmoor due mainly to excessive cleaning of boulders, but also some other issues. Please follow the Respect the Rock code as well as the following site specific access code of conduct:  

  • No new development - there are in excess of 700 exisiting lines across Bovey Woods as a whole and further development would mean more cleaning and removal of important mosses and lichens. This is a real concern to the landowners and continued development and new cleaning could result in loss of access.

  • Keep cleaning to a minimum. A completely clean boulder might look good to a climber, but to the landowner it looks a lot like environmental damage. Keep individual holds clean, don't strip entire faces of vegetation.

  • Chalk really stands out in the environment, so remove as much as possible from the rock before leaving a problem.

  • Please don't use this area for lantern sessions (night bouldering) - this has been a contributing factor in the developing access concerns of the landowner.

  • Take your litter home with you as well as any other litter in the area. This includes things like pieces of finger tape which can be easily forgotten.

Rockfax Description
Up and to the right of the Mega Wall boulder is a low, wide boulder. From a sit-start on the left, traverse right along the spine of fine-grained granite. Light-hearted fun but enjoyable and worthwhile nonetheless. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Just above Devon Sent. A sitting start at the far left of the 'spine' leads to cracking moves as the feature is followed.

Simon Mooney.

Ticklists

The Art of the Granite Crab , Devon Bouldering (with a few honorary problems from Cornwall)

Feedback

User Date Notes
chudders1 27 Mar, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: I guess grade depends on how strict you are starting far left
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I guess grade depends on how strict you are starting far left

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Bovey Woods

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Voting
High f6A+
Mid f6A+
Low f6A+
High f6A
Mid f6A
Low f6A
High f5+
Mid f5+
Low f5+
Votes cast 7
Votes cast 6
Style of Ascent
Bouldered
Not Set
Redpoint
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Repeated
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Tower of Guns

Grade: f6A ***
(Lustleigh Cleave)

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