Restricted Access
Bearacleave Wood is owned by the National Trust and contains some fantastic quality bouldering with something for everyone. Access problems have arisen recently at this and other bouldering areas on Dartmoor due mainly to excessive cleaning of boulders, but also some other issues. Please follow the Respect the Rock code as well as the following site specific access code of conduct:
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No new development - there are in excess of 700 exisiting lines across Bovey Woods as a whole and further development would mean more cleaning and removal of important mosses and lichens. This is a real concern to the landowners and continued development and new cleaning could result in loss of access.
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Keep cleaning to a minimum. A completely clean boulder might look good to a climber, but to the landowner it looks a lot like environmental damage. Keep individual holds clean, don't strip entire faces of vegetation.
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Chalk really stands out in the environment, so remove as much as possible from the rock before leaving a problem.
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Please don't use this area for lantern sessions (night bouldering) - this has been a contributing factor in the developing access concerns of the landowner.
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Take your litter home with you as well as any other litter in the area. This includes things like pieces of finger tape which can be easily forgotten.
Rockfax Description
The scooped groove on the north side of The Jumble (eliminating the ledge out right at this grade). © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Climbs the scooped groove ~20m right of Heroes cave. Ledge out right not in.
John McShea.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Macca_7 | 20 Feb |
Show βeta
βeta: Glorious fine grained rock in this part of the woods get on it while its clean | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Glorious fine grained rock in this part of the woods get on it while its clean |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Bovey Woods
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Fougou Traverse
Grade: f6A ***
(Hound Tor)