UKC

Restricted Access

Bearacleave Wood is owned by the National Trust and contains some fantastic quality bouldering with something for everyone. Access problems have arisen recently at this and other bouldering areas on Dartmoor due mainly to excessive cleaning of boulders, but also some other issues. Please follow the Respect the Rock code as well as the following site specific access code of conduct:  

  • No new development - there are in excess of 700 exisiting lines across Bovey Woods as a whole and further development would mean more cleaning and removal of important mosses and lichens. This is a real concern to the landowners and continued development and new cleaning could result in loss of access.

  • Keep cleaning to a minimum. A completely clean boulder might look good to a climber, but to the landowner it looks a lot like environmental damage. Keep individual holds clean, don't strip entire faces of vegetation.

  • Chalk really stands out in the environment, so remove as much as possible from the rock before leaving a problem.

  • Please don't use this area for lantern sessions (night bouldering) - this has been a contributing factor in the developing access concerns of the landowner.

  • Take your litter home with you as well as any other litter in the area. This includes things like pieces of finger tape which can be easily forgotten.

On the front (west) face of the Dinky Boulder is an obvious Left-to-right lip traverse. Good fun.

Possibly f6A as first ascent was done in poor conditions. Please vote!

Tom Rainbow.

Feedback

User Date Notes
granticus 26 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Really liked this problem. Done in mint conditions on the first cold autumn Sat morning. Definitely easier than Beara Boogie which also gets 6b but think BB is due an upgrade rather than this needing a down grade.
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βeta: Really liked this problem. Done in mint conditions on the first cold autumn Sat morning. Definitely easier than Beara Boogie which also gets 6b but think BB is due an upgrade rather than this needing a down grade.
iantoday 28 Jun, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Felt V4
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βeta: Felt V4

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Bovey Woods

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Voting
High f6B+
Mid f6B+
Low f6B+
High f6B
Mid f6B
Low f6B
High f6A+
Mid f6A+
Low f6A+
Votes cast 10
Votes cast 7
Style of Ascent
Bouldered
Not Set
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Onsighted
DNF
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
Beau Wall

Grade: f6B ***
(Bell Tor)

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