Bearacleave Wood is owned by the National Trust and contains some fantastic quality bouldering with something for everyone. Access problems have arisen recently at this and other bouldering areas on Dartmoor due mainly to excessive cleaning of boulders, but also some other issues. Please follow the Respect the Rock code as well as the following site specific access code of conduct:
No new development - there are in excess of 700 exisiting lines across Bovey Woods as a whole and further development would mean more cleaning and removal of important mosses and lichens. This is a real concern to the landowners and continued development and new cleaning could result in loss of access.
Keep cleaning to a minimum. A completely clean boulder might look good to a climber, but to the landowner it looks a lot like environmental damage. Keep individual holds clean, don't strip entire faces of vegetation.
Chalk really stands out in the environment, so remove as much as possible from the rock before leaving a problem.
Please don't use this area for lantern sessions (night bouldering) - this has been a contributing factor in the developing access concerns of the landowner.
Take your litter home with you as well as any other litter in the area. This includes things like pieces of finger tape which can be easily forgotten.
Rockfax Description
Wonderfully named, high quality squeezin' and slappin'. From a sit-start with the left hand on a scooped hold on the left, funk your way up through the bulge. The rock to the right of the crack isn't used. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Just to the left of Fungus the Bogeyman. Start sitting with scooped hold for left hand. Rock out right not used (probably wouldn't help anyway). Lots of compression. Lovely!
Tom Rainbow.
Bovey Woods 3 Stars (f7A+ & Above)
User | Date | Notes | ||
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granticus | 4 Feb, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: I think Tom and others have done this with heels and bumping the right hand up 4 or 5 times through marginal holds around the arete until it gets good. Managed to distil it down to 3 moves with the right hand. Tricky top out succumbed to a well placed knee! | ||
Show beta
βeta: I think Tom and others have done this with heels and bumping the right hand up 4 or 5 times through marginal holds around the arete until it gets good. Managed to distil it down to 3 moves with the right hand. Tricky top out succumbed to a well placed knee! |
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Grade: f7A ***
(Bovey Woods)