UPDATE NOVEMBER 2020: The building above the wall has recently undergone renovation, which has installed new lighting and made nighttime ascents much more pleasant. however, they are concerned about people pissing in the doorway where they store their bikes. PUT SIMPLY, IF YOU KEEP PISSING HERE, YOU'RE JEOPARDISING ACCESS.
go down the lane and use the bushes if you can't hold it in. Their staff shouldn't need to wade through pissy leaves in order to go home.
The Broomgove wall is an 'old skool' training venue on the side of one of Sheffield Hallam Universities buildings off Broomgrove Road. Having been used for years by the superstars of the 80's the wall is generally very quiet now.
The wall is vertical faced gritstone with the holds generally being small and/or sloping which makes for fantastic fingery climbing. The wall reaches a height of about 4m and has a main section which is about 15m long and a shorter section which is about 8m long. A balcony on the floor above ensures that the wall is perma-dry, with only the footholds getting wet from spray in the heaviest of rain.
Being real rock, conditions can be fickle and the holds tend to feel much smaller than usual when catching the sun during the summer. It is a much better evening/winter venue. The wall catches some street-lighting so after-dark climbing is possible.
The usual challenges are variations on the traverses but, given the number and variety of holds, the possibility for 'pull-on' and short 'up' problems is endless.
DON'T PULL ON THE WINDOW SILLS ON THE RIGHT HAND SECTION. Thanks.
If coming down Broomgrove Road (from Broomhill way), about 1/4 of the way down the road, and immediately after a large Hallam Uni building (Broomgrove Hall) there is a small driveway on the left with a yellow sign. The wall is on the building on the left at the end of this drive (50m down).
The hall above the wall is used by the university and the windows are often open so if you are using the wall during the day, keep the noise down.