Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 290m a.s.l
A guide is available on Unknown Stones, or contact me at firstname.lastname@example.org if you want the guide or to discuss anything down there
The majority of climbs here are below 6a, and therefore ideal for boulderers new to the outdoors or anyone wanting to get 50 problems done in a day for training. The crag needs some traffic and we’re happy to listen to views on grades. We have marked a few projects we couldn’t do and there’s more waiting.
The crag is south facing and gets the most of the sun, it tends to dry within an hour of rain and offers great views over the chase and into Sheffield.
These are new climbs so please be careful. The rock is, for the most part, brilliant fresh gritstone/hard sandstone, it has a few faces where there are iron deposits forming ‘chickenheads’ which can be fracturable, the Ironside block is the best example of this and the dyno ‘Other Footholds are Available’ will give you an idea of how friable that top surface is.
The blocks at the far end dry faster and offer a greater variety of climbing. America Slab, Block 1 area and the Overhanging Block are the stand out areas. Comfortably Numb (6b+), Isengard (f5+), Get it on (5+), Small Person Beta (6a+) and Delicatessen (5) really stand out as clean varied lines.
A note on sit starts, we have included many due to the crag having prominent breaks all the way through at unfortunate heights, sit starts make the first good break unreachable for the first move in many cases. They can be done by tall people, there are reachy moves elsewhere on the crag!
Park at Greno Woods car park which is between Grenoside and the A616 and well signposted, its only 5 minutes off the M1. In Grenoside there’s a good local shop (where you can also get a cuppa) and a number of good pubs and a chippy. The car park is free and if full plenty of on road parking. Walk in is 15mins. Follow the main footpath downhill and take the right turn off the main path marked below(yellow arrow), follow the path below the field, over the stile (blue arrow) at the end from which you can see the crag. If you climb over the gate just further on from the yellow arrow there is a drier path if a little longer (Marked in green). Follow the path uphill, over the track and this takes you to the top of the crag, the main crag starts after the broken stone wall. Jeff’s Roof is just before this. There is a rough path across the bottom of the crag but it’s easier to walk across the top.
|Fun place to blast a font-style easy circuit. Holds pleasant to the touch and bags of friction. Grading always going to be a bit 'swings and roundabouts' when the problems are so short / eliminate. If you're tall with long levers, you'll find some of the sit starts a bit bunched with the crux being lifting your butt off the ground. But on other problems a big reach can makes problems feel generously graded. Hence why best to soak up the experience 'in the round'! Ryan and Jeff take a bow for investing the time to open the area up.
TonyM - 25/Mar/21
|We have noticed round the crag damage to the faces that look like axes/crampons from someone dry tooling. I'm guessing noone doing it would be on here but in case...please stop
RyanR - 23/Mar/21
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