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12m.

Rockfax Description
Layback the curving black flake and swing around the corner to a ledge. The delicate upper arete is a worrying contrast. The lower arete can be climbed on the right to give a tough direct start, Too Good to be Forgotten, f6A. © Rockfax

FA. John Allen 1971.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Pete's 150 Peak Extremes, John Allen (gritstone) megamix, Eastern Grit Trip: The Best Of The Proposed Crags.

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User Date Notes
Pythonist 15 Mar, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Slightly awkward crux getting around the arete, yes, but the nice short intro, and then the excitement of trying not to over-balance on the arete make it all worthwhile. Two ropes might be recommended, as the gear behind the lower flake, and on the arete isn't reassuring, whereas being able to use the gear placements in the bottom of the ledge and out right would be very useful. Hard E1!
βeta?
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βeta: Slightly awkward crux getting around the arete, yes, but the nice short intro, and then the excitement of trying not to over-balance on the arete make it all worthwhile. Two ropes might be recommended, as the gear behind the lower flake, and on the arete isn't reassuring, whereas being able to use the gear placements in the bottom of the ledge and out right would be very useful. Hard E1!
Si dH 12 Nov, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Fell off this and ended up finishign up the chimney. The crux is very awkward.
βeta?
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βeta: Fell off this and ended up finishign up the chimney. The crux is very awkward.
Sam Doyle 3 Nov, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Good route. No other E1 has taken me three attempts. The move off the middle height ledge to gain the arete is brilliant.
βeta?
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βeta: Good route. No other E1 has taken me three attempts. The move off the middle height ledge to gain the arete is brilliant.
tom r 7 Jun, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Is a great little route. Top bit is very technical and sparsly protected.
βeta?
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βeta: Is a great little route. Top bit is very technical and sparsly protected.
dan_o_b 5 Jun, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: liked it, but then I'm tall so the top bit was ok for me. Bottom bit was very awkward mind.
βeta?
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βeta: liked it, but then I'm tall so the top bit was ok for me. Bottom bit was very awkward mind.
Fiend 31 Mar, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Awkward and not particularly enjoyable.
βeta?
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βeta: Awkward and not particularly enjoyable.
Sazzle 11 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Fantastic route, good mix of brute and technical. Flake is solid at the top, more than enough for a cam. Getting off the ledge really took some thinking about, and several false starts - probably harder for us shorties (as always).
βeta?
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βeta: Fantastic route, good mix of brute and technical. Flake is solid at the top, more than enough for a cam. Getting off the ledge really took some thinking about, and several false starts - probably harder for us shorties (as always).
Duz Walker 24 Jun, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: single cam (well behind flake, monkeyed around, hands on shelf, just a mantle and **********, rope wedged, no give, fell whipped around the aret and ran up black slab. That flake is sound and the fall ok. QED. Top part chocka with great useless holds. Fine route nevetheless.
βeta?
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βeta: single cam (well behind flake, monkeyed around, hands on shelf, just a mantle and **********, rope wedged, no give, fell whipped around the aret and ran up black slab. That flake is sound and the fall ok. QED. Top part chocka with great useless holds. Fine route nevetheless.
Iggy_B 9 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Strenous then technical and not as much gear as you'd like, seems to have everything.
βeta?
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βeta: Strenous then technical and not as much gear as you'd like, seems to have everything.
GrahamD 25 Oct, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: The crux is definately on the top wall where the dodgy gear appears to receed rapidly !
βeta?
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βeta: The crux is definately on the top wall where the dodgy gear appears to receed rapidly !
Jon Greengrass 17 Jun, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Bits of the flake have snapped off, glad i wasn't leading it. i found it deviously techncial.
βeta?
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βeta: Bits of the flake have snapped off, glad i wasn't leading it. i found it deviously techncial.
Mark S Davies 15 Apr, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: tricky moves off the ledge
βeta?
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βeta: tricky moves off the ledge

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High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 140
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 136
Votes cast 120
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Dogged
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Embankment 4

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Millstone Edge)