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Covid-19

At UKC we are all climbers and we understand the strong urge to be outdoors as the weather is finally improving. Please proceed with caution though.

Climbs 313
Rocktype Volcanic tuff
Altitude 190m a.s.l
Faces all

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Robin on Grimley's Crack © Roget

Crag features

Tors and boulders of volcanic breccia scattered around Cademan Wood and Broad Hill.

Please note: Do not park irresponsibly; the online guidebook to Cademan describes several parking spots around the wood, please make use of them. If the place you want to park is full then please park on another side of the wood and walk in, or find another place to climb (see the Leicestershire Bouldering website for ideas).

If you can, please take a bin bag and collect any rubbish you find as this will improve relations with the locals who use the wood for walking and finding peace. Please do not play music, even if you think nobody else is around.

Approach notes

There are two car parks, one on Swannymote Road (GPS Coordinates) and one on Melrose Road (GPS Coordinates). There is roadside parking along Loughborough Road (GPS Coordinates). There is some parking on Gracedieu Road but please park courteosly (GPS Coordinates). If the place you are trying to park seems full then please find somewhere else to park.

If you wish to access Cademan Roadside then do so via the access gate; do not climb over any dry stone walls.

 

Restricted Access

Access to Cademan Rocks for climbing has not been formalised at the current time and could be withdrawn in future if issues continue. At all times practice a minimal impact approach and leave the area in a better condition than you found it. It is important that visiting climbers respect the area, keep a low profile, behave well and cultivate a positive image to other users, local residents and landowners alike. 

  • Parking is very limited and poor parking damages verges and obstructs traffic – both of which give climbers a bad name with locals. Follow the detailed parking guidance in the ‘Parking and Approach’ section below and don’t be part of the problem.
  • If there is nowhere to park without contributing to these issues, please don’t squeeze in regardless – help to preserve long term access and go elsewhere or come back another day.  
  • Litter has noticeably increased in the woods in recent times which is a very obvious negative impact of increased visitor numbers. Do your bit to look after the woods and as well as taking your own litter home with you, pick up other litter you see. The BMC Hills 2 Oceans campaign is providing free litter pickers and bags to help climbers clear up their local crags – click here to get yours.
  • Do not climb over dry stone walls to access any boulders – it will damage the wall and annoy landowners. Take a longer approach if necessary to avoid this.
  • Overnight camping at the rocks or nearby in vehicles is very noticeable and likely to cause friction with local residents and landowners so please don’t do it.

Guidebooks

We have the same experience with parking/access and was warned by a local regarding the frustration of residents towards climbers. In particular, the parkings on Turolough Road and Warren Lane listed as laybys on UKC are not actually laybys but rather part of the private land. So please refrain from using those and park in an actual car park.
kwunshin - 29/Jun/20
Just be aware, we were stopped by a local man who expressed some disdain at the number of visitors to the area, especially around the parking and the erosion to the verges. Suggested the local community were growing tired of the situation and were likely to take matters into their own hands. Could be something and nothing but worth being mindful when parking and moving about the place.
LP - 25/Jun/20
I've been visiting Cademan once a fortnight over the summer and this place never ceases to amaze me! I'm always finding new boulders and small crags - some of which aren't in the UKC guide. It's a good idea to bring a wire brush, although the rock at Twentysteps is as clean as a whistle. Great place!
martin curtis - 31/Oct/19
The worst bouldering in the country.
Laurence Everitt - 20/Sep/19
Is this the crag in Cademan Wood with the trig point on top? If not, does anyone have a grid ref?
NobbyClark - 27/Aug/13
A visit prompted by the Climber magazine article in July 2013. Some nice problems, but some parts a bit overgrown with summer ferns and brambles.
jack89 - 08/Jul/13
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Climbs at this crag

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