UKC

Restricted Access

Access to Cademan Rocks for climbing has not been formalised at the current time and could be withdrawn in future if issues continue. At all times practice a minimal impact approach and leave the area in a better condition than you found it. It is important that visiting climbers respect the area, keep a low profile, behave well and cultivate a positive image to other users, local residents and landowners alike. 

  • Parking is very limited and poor parking damages verges and obstructs traffic – both of which give climbers a bad name with locals. Follow the detailed parking guidance in the ‘Parking and Approach’ section below and don’t be part of the problem.
  • If there is nowhere to park without contributing to these issues, please don’t squeeze in regardless – help to preserve long term access and go elsewhere or come back another day.  
  • Litter has noticeably increased in the woods in recent times which is a very obvious negative impact of increased visitor numbers. Do your bit to look after the woods and as well as taking your own litter home with you, pick up other litter you see. The BMC Hills 2 Oceans campaign is providing free litter pickers and bags to help climbers clear up their local crags – click here to get yours.
  • Do not climb over dry stone walls to access any boulders – it will damage the wall and annoy landowners. Take a longer approach if necessary to avoid this.
  • Overnight camping at the rocks or nearby in vehicles is very noticeable and likely to cause friction with local residents and landowners so please don’t do it.
Sit-start using the right arĂȘte and a good toe hook. Traverse up and left avoiding the top of the boulder before topping out on the far left.

Ticklists

Leicestershire Bouldering (6A-6C+) , Cademan Class , LSMC to do

Feedback

User Date Notes
herbie Johnson 10 May, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: This is an eliminate I've seen so many people use the top holds after the move to the jug for me this was the harder part.
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βeta: This is an eliminate I've seen so many people use the top holds after the move to the jug for me this was the harder part.
notgnarly 12 Feb, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Chalk bag dab on mat protecting left wall so then repeatedbwithout wearing chalk bag. This took me a few goes surprisingly.
βeta?
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βeta: Chalk bag dab on mat protecting left wall so then repeatedbwithout wearing chalk bag. This took me a few goes surprisingly.
Reece Cadman 22 Jan, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Low left toe hook and coming over with L/H onto good jug first move
βeta?
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βeta: Low left toe hook and coming over with L/H onto good jug first move
harrison 20 Jan, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Bit un-sporting to dish out the beta in the description
βeta?
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βeta: Bit un-sporting to dish out the beta in the description

Logged Ascents

228 users have logged this
20 users have this on their wishlist

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Voting
High f6C
Mid f6C
Low f6C
High f6B+
Mid f6B+
Low f6B+
High f6B
Mid f6B
Low f6B
High f6A+
Mid f6A+
Low f6A+
Votes cast 18
Votes cast 19
Style of Ascent
Bouldered
Soloed
Not Set
Redpoint
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Jelly Leg Groove

Grade: f6B+ ***
(Morley Quarry)

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