UKC Logbook - 'Savage Slit (Summer)'

80m, 4 pitches. This is a classic climb. Once at the bottom of the climb there is an old piton about 3metres up in the rock to the left, either use this or solo up to the first real belay point 10m above. easy placements here and a good view of practically the whole climb. The crack/chimney above this is narrow but deep often going back 4m or more. There are good ledges and foot placements for most of the climb and an abundance of welded gear remains in the wall. Guides mostly split the rest of the climb into 3 pitches but the next 2 pitches are easily combined as one. All the belay points are perfect with wide ledges or chock stones in the crack. The last belay has two ledges 3 metres apart, since the crack veers of here this is a possible abseil point back to the bottom of the y gully

R.B.FRERE, K.A.ROBERTSON 1939.

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Classic Rock , Ultimate Scottish Rock , Scottish Classic Rock , Scottish 3 and 4 star multi-pitch routes , 2013 Scottish Multi Pitch Mission , The Baron's Bucket List , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , The Original 'Classic Rock' List , RGU challange list , Scottish Rock Benchmarks , Mountain Rock , Garry Latter, Scottish Ticklist up to VS , Cairngorm Classic Rock Challenge , RGU Shelterstone , Wishlist 2021/22 , Carrotte's summer sends (multi pitch edition) , The boys climb da rocks. , Scotland wishlist , Gary Latter's Scottish Rock Ticklist

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User	Date		Notes
DHollands	7 Sep	Show βeta βeta: Looks like tat at halfway belay is cut? Top abseil tat in good condition
Show beta βeta: Looks like tat at halfway belay is cut? Top abseil tat in good condition
Lewis Callum Black	23 Jul	Show βeta βeta: Block midway up is very loose. It looks sound from below, I only noticed how loose it was once I stood on it! Climbed with Kev, we got caught up in some pretty bad weather and decided to bail off after the second pitch. Left a locker and a 240 up there for the taking!
Show beta βeta: Block midway up is very loose. It looks sound from below, I only noticed how loose it was once I stood on it! Climbed with Kev, we got caught up in some pretty bad weather and decided to bail off after the second pitch. Left a locker and a 240 up there for the taking!
Random Tyke	20 Jun	Show βeta βeta: My first lead in Scotland (1972, age 16) - pretty sure it was only rated VD in those days.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: My first lead in Scotland (1972, age 16) - pretty sure it was only rated VD in those days.
CameronDuff14	13 May	Show βeta βeta: Abseil tat in situ at halfway belay and top of route, in ok condition May 2023	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Abseil tat in situ at halfway belay and top of route, in ok condition May 2023
LoganDuguid	27 Aug, 2022	Show βeta βeta: Loose block on main pitch inside the chimney.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Loose block on main pitch inside the chimney.
sparkybatteryboy	18 Aug, 2020	Show βeta βeta: Awesome sustained climbing loads of protection	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Awesome sustained climbing loads of protection

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Guidebooks for Cairn Gorm - Cairn Lochan

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Scottish Rock Climbs (Wired) (2022)

Scottish Mountaineering Club
By Kevin Howett

Guidebook correction for this climb

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Savage Slit (Summer) S

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Logged Ascents

Guidebooks for Cairn Gorm - Cairn Lochan

Scottish Rock Climbs (Wired) (2022)

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