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UKClimbing Team

60m, 2 pitches. P1. 40m Start at the toe of a slim buttress with a crack running down its middle, 70m to the right, (north), of Smooth as Silk. Climb the crack, stepping right 3m below a small roof, passing it on the right hand side to reach the top of the buttress. Continue through some easier ground to belay in the rocks 5m above the top of the buttress.
P2. 20m Continue up easier ground to the top.

FA. G.Kinsey, J.Edwards, R.Webb 02/Jan/2014

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Hidden 13 Feb AltLd
Hidden 13 Feb AltLd O/S
Robbie Blease 10 Nov, 2019 2nd O/S
with innes
with innes
Hidden 10 Nov, 2019 2nd O/S
innes 10 Nov, 2019 Lead O/S Finished direct up the final crack to the roof, turning it on the right and then up a short final wall (as per the exact line on the photo topo).
Finished direct up the final crack to the roof, turning it on the right and then up a short final wall (as per the exact line on the photo topo).
Hidden 10 Nov, 2019 2nd O/S
Hidden 10 Nov, 2019 Lead
Tom Fullen 22 Jan, 2019 2nd O/S III,6... thought the grade sounded odd. Pretty stiff and tenuous for a III. With that said, it’s a very worthwhile route. Definitely needs frozen turf for anyone considering it in the future.
with roym
III,6... thought the grade sounded odd. Pretty stiff and tenuous for a III. With that said, it’s a very worthwhile route. Definitely needs frozen turf for anyone considering it in the future.
with roym
roym 22 Jan, 2019 Lead O/S A very intense single pitch, didn't think I'd make the top. Will be sending the underwear laundry bill to the first ascentionists who inticed me giving it III!(Very loose tetrahedral block on mid pitch ledge)
A very intense single pitch, didn't think I'd make the top. Will be sending the underwear laundry bill to the first ascentionists who inticed me giving it III!(Very loose tetrahedral block on mid pitch ledge)
Alex Riley 8 Jan, 2018 Lead O/S Lead as one pitch. Conditions were good, bit had to dig around for gear quite a bit. No real hard crux, but sustained. Hard to comment on the grade, but III seems a bit of a sandbag (albeit a tech 6 one).
Lead as one pitch. Conditions were good, bit had to dig around for gear quite a bit. No real hard crux, but sustained. Hard to comment on the grade, but III seems a bit of a sandbag (albeit a tech 6 one).
SamP88 8 Jan, 2018 2nd
GaryK 2 Jan, 2014 Lead O/S First ascent. Some interesting sections.
with Roger Webb, James Edwards
First ascent. Some interesting sections.
with Roger Webb, James Edwards
6 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High IV
Mid IV
Low IV
High III
Mid III
Low III
High II/III
Mid II/III
Low II/III
Votes cast 5
High 7
Mid 7
Low 7
High 6
Mid 6
Low 6
High 5
Mid 5
Low 5
Votes cast 2
Votes cast 3
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Onsighted
Not Set
Route of Interest

Flake Buttress (Winter)

Grade: III ***
(Ben Macdui - Stob Coire Sputan Dearg)