A fine volcanic outcrop with lots of easier and middle grade climbs. A kind of firm mudstone or slate, but in its natural state, not UK-style quarries. The strata run almost horizontally, but slightly upward-pointing, so the routes are steep but with many huge jugs.
The climbing is better than it looks, but perhaps not worth a special trip. Can be combined with a visit to the local village, which is very pretty if you can time it to avoid the tour buses. Most routes are the range 4 to 6a, but can feel hard for the grade due to the steepness.
Guide can be found here see http://www.mountain-house.co.uk/Capileirarockclimbingguide.pdf
In early July, the main crag, Tajo del Aldeide, remains in shade until 1-2pm, left hand side in shade for longer. There are two short climbs just before the main area, ideal for beginners. There is another slab climb (4+) between here and the main crag, 15m further up the hillside, accessed by a steep trail to the right of the main crag.
The ambiance and setting of the crag is superb. Our only company was the local farmer with his dogs, two donkeys and a dozen goats.
Ignore the guidebook access information, which is wrong.
It is a 5 minute walk, not 30 minutes. Follow this description instead.
From the tourist information continue up the road for approx. 50m before taking a left fork along a pleasant street with bars shops and a bank. At the end of this turn left and right into a square with drinking fountains. (the bars here are the nearest to the crag). Exit from the square at its far end and proceed downhill for about 50m. Here turn right and follow the road northwards (in the direction of the mountains). Leaving the village the road becomes a dirt track. Take the footpath that forks right off the track, this leads to the crag in about 5 minutes.
There is also parking further up the hill, past the street with bars. As the road bend sharply right on a hairpin, follow the parking sign left, down a steep lane round to the left, and park in one of two areas on the right. The fountain is at the bottom of this road.