UKC

Climbs 35
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 104m a.s.l
Faces S

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Beautiful Luxulyan Valley © Tom Last

Crag features

A call to arms (or brushes) all locals in lock down. This crag is very worth while it, there are still some new lines to be done it just needs some love and a little scrubbing. A large tree has fallen so the main crag is a lot more open with more sun so it drys quicker and is just a little nicer.

It is a very interesting area set amongst impressive dense woodland. The rock although dirty is of the very coarse crystalline variety (Luxulyanite don’t you know), the climbing is very good, is of a good length and has its own charm. Could this be a Cornish version of Devon’s mighty Dewerstone, only smaller and no one ever visits so the woods have taken a hold of it.

Ready for future explorers to re-discover and develop or the wood will surely take over.

Approach notes

There are three ways to approach: -
First park as for Luxulyan Quarry (059568) walk in as if your going to the quarry but head under the railway and over the river. Imediatly turn left then right onto the large track. Follow this for 15mins or so over another bridge which crosses a steep incline and the crag is up on the left.

Second park at ponts mill. Walk along the track just, after the large railway bridge there is a gate pass through this then up the next track for a little while till another small path leads onto another larger track. Follow this passing some smaller crags on the left (tie fighter, rainy day smile......) the main crag is up on the right.

Third just wonderaround till your really lost and you might find the little people.

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Climbs at this crag

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