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Climbs 114
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 6m a.s.l
Faces SW

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Cornwall at it's best. Illustrated Man E2. © Kafoozalem

Crag features

Many excellent single-pitch routes up to 90ft, equally split among all grades. Sheltered as long as there isn't a heavy swell running.
Just a brief update from a visit July 2012 there is a fair amount of choss along the top of the crag including some decent size blocks. A great place though but would defo where a helmet here if there were a few parties about. The crag itself is mainly very sound.

May 2019 the large pinnacle block on the upper section of Criss, Winged Victory and Niche Wall is gone leaving an obvious scar. Routes not climbed so impact on grades not ascertained.

Approach notes

Tidal in some parts, and all affected by heavy swells.
Park at the Porthgwarra car park (turn off the B3315) and follow the tarmac road uphill, to where it reaches the open cliffland: the road curves L and splits. Take the path directly ahead (the L one goes to Chair Ladder) leading along the higher edge of the cliff. After about 1100m you should cross a granite wall. Continue 300m to a curve L at a headland with a perched boulder. Follow the grassy depression down.

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Guidebooks

West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UK’s most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfax’s award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UK’s most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
More info
Crack In The Sky, Grand Plage and Marisco Striptease all affected by rockfall. Crack In The Sky now shorter and slightly easier. Grand Plage now reported to be E4 6b with a loss in quality. Marisco Striptease suffering minor loss to crux jug probably making it more difficult.
Ian Jones - 13/Apr/15
Very large flake gone from bottom of grande plage as of 16th Feb 2013. Start will be harder now- a guy who shunted it thought 6b.
Bristoldave - 19/Feb/13
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Climbs at this crag

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