An excellent, sustained wall-pitch with good but spaced protection. It is at the upper end of the E1 grade. Start 6m left of the house-sized boulder and just right of a narrow corner above the low overhang.Make some hard moves through the low overhang to reach the diagonal break. Step left and climb the wall directly to the right end of a short left-slanting hand-ledge. Move up onto it and from its left end move up the wall past wires to a horizontal finger-crack. Finish direct to a flake belay and scramble off left. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
A direct line up the slab right of Saxon with tricky protection. Start on a large boulder left of the Saxon start and pull strenuously throught the overhang into the break at 4m (it is possible to protect this section after the first move is made). Continue direct for 10-15m before pulling up to and onto the obvious sloping ledge. Move to the left end of this and finish direct.
R Edwards, M Edwards 17/Apr/1979.
Victim Of Mathematics' Ticklist of Extreme Justice, Best slab climbs of the UK, West Country Climbs, Ultimate E1 ticklist, Paul's pre-Kendal Kernow ticklist, 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes, CUC Climbing Club, Part 2: Hidden Gems, Adventures & Harder Offerings, The Seaside (Oh I Do Like To Be Beside), Five b Cornwall, Target Routes 2019/2020, Pre-departure
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