UKC

24m.

Rockfax Description
The classic of the crag with superb sustained climbing and just enough gear. High in the grade. Start up the thin cracks three metres right of the square hole. Step right when the going gets tough and move up to a ledge. Finish more easily above. © Rockfax

FA. G.Lewis, H.Griffiths, M.Harber, C.Parkin 08/Jun/1985.

Ticklists

Pembroke Rockfax Top 50, Best slab climbs of the UK, Ultimate E3 ticklist, The Best of Pembroke, 101Pembroke Extremes, The 30 best E3 routes in the UK?, 2020/21 Goals

Feedback

User Date Notes
Frank the Husky 19 Apr, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Agreed, best done without the route being chalked up...a fine and absorbing experience!
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βeta: Agreed, best done without the route being chalked up...a fine and absorbing experience!
Fiend 10 Apr, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: An excellent route that is considerably more feasible than it looks from below - best climbed before it gets chalked! Mild for the grade with brass offsets, even without it wouldn't be too bad - just one rather bold rockover just where the gear isn't. Unsustained in climbing but definitely sustained in quality.
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βeta: An excellent route that is considerably more feasible than it looks from below - best climbed before it gets chalked! Mild for the grade with brass offsets, even without it wouldn't be too bad - just one rather bold rockover just where the gear isn't. Unsustained in climbing but definitely sustained in quality.
Furzy Sleight 7 Apr, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: yes very good route indeed
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βeta: yes very good route indeed
Alun 12 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Slab climbing at its very best. After the first gear, the climbing is runout, sustained 5c for the next 20 foot or so, with the psychological and technical crux move moving up and right to a completely bomber nut slot, which you will be delighted to see. The holds are small but all very positive, so that it never really feels desparate. From the bomber slot the climbing is continously interesting and well-protected, with a steep but easy finish. A magnificent route.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Slab climbing at its very best. After the first gear, the climbing is runout, sustained 5c for the next 20 foot or so, with the psychological and technical crux move moving up and right to a completely bomber nut slot, which you will be delighted to see. The holds are small but all very positive, so that it never really feels desparate. From the bomber slot the climbing is continously interesting and well-protected, with a steep but easy finish. A magnificent route.

Logged Ascents

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106 users have this on their wishlist

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Voting
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 51
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 49
Votes cast 49
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Dogged
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Brazen Buttress Direct Finish

Grade: E3 5b ***
(Mother Carey's Kitchen)
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