Loading Notifications...

Climbs 106
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 10m a.s.l
Faces S

View Stats

south coast winter © Tommy Harris

Crag features

The Cattle Troughs routes are easy to reach and have generally sound rock. However, gear can be a bit sparse on some climbs and it is a dangerous venue in rough, or even moderate, seas. The Cattle Troughs Area is popular with novices and beginners, although for a first taste of Swanage, Subluminal may be a better bet. 

The Unknown and Flake Ledges are very quiet venues that have a number of interesting and varied climbs spanning the grades. Amphitheatre Ledge Area has some quality harder climbs on reasonably good rock, whilst the slabs and short friendly walls of the Hangover and Isis Areas are favourites with those looking for good easier and mid-grade routes.

Approach notes

From Durlston car park, follow the road towards the lighthouse then turn west along the coast path (right - looking out). Continue to 150m beyond the fourth stone wall from the lighthouse (the western limit of Durlston Country park) where the cliff-top path dips into a small valley above a slabby cove. Cross the fence here at a small stile. This is Amphitheatre Ledge. For the Isis, Hangover and Flake Ledge Areas follow a narrow, exposed path that contours rightwards along the cliff-top (looking out). Pass several belay stakes until until a large gearing-up ledge is reached after 200m (just beyond a large amphitheatre known as the Lecture Theatre). Alternatively continue along the main coast path, cross a stile and follow a steep path leading down through nettle beds, and past a tall post, to the cliff-top gearing up ledge.

Additional details - July 2010: There appears to have been some land slippage a couple of feet in length halfway along the narrow cliff top path. It was still passable but very suspect. Probably now best to take the alternative approach path mentioned above and make your own assessment of the situation from there.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Android and iOS devices.


Guidebooks

Dorset

The latest edition of the Dorset Rockfax features the now widely acclaimed full-page colour topos, and includes all the new lines in the areas previously covered, as well as many entirely new sectors. The crags are illustrated using bigger topos and there is a complete new set of action photos. This new Rockfax guide will concentrate on Portland, Swanage and Lulworth, covering all the sport routes in these areas, and also the bulk of the quality trad climbing at Swanage and Lulworth. Coverage of bouldering and deep water soloing, along with all the routes in Devon have migrated from this book.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Swanage (2015)
South West Climbs - Volume 1 (2012)
Swanage and Portland (1995)

Out of print:
There are no comments from visitors to this crag.
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Beta
Name Grade Stars Type Logs Partner Ascents
These climbs you have climbed clean.
These climbs you have climbed by seconding or top-roping.
These climbs you have Dogged.
These climbs you Did not Finish.
Climbs are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate. Climbs can't be verified by a crag moderator, and they need more information to confirm it. Climbs are no longer climbable.

Moderators Updates to this page are checked by a UKC volunteer Marti999