At UKC we are all climbers and we understand the strong urge to be outdoors as the weather is finally improving. Please proceed with caution though.
30m. 3m to the right of Varina is a slight stepped groove below an overhang at half height. Climb this and poorly protected ground to the orange rock below overhang, place difficult to see gear and climb boldly rightwards over the left-hand side of it. Move back left (peg) to climb a shallow groove to top corner of Varina.