Climbs 75
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 100m a.s.l
Faces N
This long-abandoned quarry is clearly visible, rising above the trees behind Matlock, when driving into the town from the north. There are around 70 climbs here now, first climbed on by Nick Taylor and further developed together with Gary Gibson, on steep walls up to 25m high. The climbing is steep and technical and generally the routes are well-bolted. Judging by the size of the trees that that grow up close to the face the quarry has been abandoned for over 40 years but despite this, the cliff has not weathered well and much loose rock remains. The worst of this has been removed but be aware of the possibility of falling rock at all times. Despite the unprepossessing setting there is little doubt that these routes will become popular and this should help clean them up.
The crag is situated below the minor road that runs between Matlock and Darley Bridge. Turn right onto the minor road (signed Snitterton) immediately after crossing the main bridge in Matlock when southbound. Follow the road as it winds uphill until the wide entrance of Halldale Quarry is seen on the left. Park here or in a lay-by on the other side of the road. Cross the wall and descend the steep slope to access the left-hand end of the quarry.
Access along this route is no longer possible due to overgrown paths. Either prepare to clear these paths or look at alternative access routes. Potentially access via fishing/angling pontoons.
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