UKC

Climbs 498
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 1784m a.s.l
Faces S

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Evening cragging in Ceuse © DaveR

Crag features

Widely considered to be 'the best crag in the world', Céüse certainly has the strongest claim to being the best sport crag in France - and there's some pretty stiff competition! Although famed for long, steep, hard routes there is something brilliant here for everyone: from steep and juggy, to vertical and technical, plus a number of multi-pitch outings.

Céuse is a summer crag. Even in the middle of August, the evenings can get cold, so bring your down jacket. Facing from southwest to east, you can follow the sun or the shade as you choose. Cascade gets sun until late morning; if you want Cascade in the shade you will need quite an early start. Leaving the campsite at around 1.30pm in the summer will get you to Berlin and sectors to its right just as they come into the shade. If it is particularly cold, or a strong breeze is blowing, it may be wise to aim to climb in the sun.

Approach notes

... there's always a catch, and this is it - the walk-in is a real pain! It takes between 45 minutes and an hour depending on how fit you are, and how much kit you've stashed on your previous visit. 

From the campsite, follow a marked path past the concrete horse shed next to the camping until you reach a well-worn path leading upwards. Follow this past a staggered junction on a forest track until you get to a track that contours several hundred metres below the crag.

Cascade - follow the path to the left, passing through a gate, a small path leads off to the right when you are under the sector.

Other Sectors - follow the path to the right, the areas are clearly visible at this point, and paths lead up the hill. The path for Berlin is indicated by a painted-on sign on a rock, for Thorgal approach as for Berlin and walk left along the base. For sectors to the right of Berlin, you can stay on the contouring path and pick one of several paths that lead up steeply to the base of the crag.

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