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Climbs 95
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 70m a.s.l
Faces SW

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'Bleep & Booster', Chapel Head Scar © Fraser

Crag features

Chapel Head Scar is the finest limestone crag in Cumbria and stands comparison with the best on offer in the UK offering some superb hard sport routes set in one of the Lake District's least-travelled and quaintest corners. The crag is extensive but only around half of it is developed due to access considerations. What is developed is simply brilliant and gives routes of diversity and length all on beautifully structured buttresses. The three major sectors each have a distinct character, ranging from long technical wall climbs through to steep and pumpy tufas.

Approach notes

Climbing is BANNED at Chapel Head Scar between February 1st and June 30th due to nesting Perigrines. Some years the ban is lifted early or not imposed at all. To check on the situation contact the BMC. If the signs on the boards at the Car Park and on the approach path say that climbing is closed then the ban is on.
There is also a no bolting or gardening agreement at Chapel Head (see BMC access information.
The final ban is on any climbing or developement at anytime to the left side of the Scar. The boundary is very clearly marked on the notice boards at the car-park, the approach path and at the base of the crag itself. Chapel Head is a very environmentally sensitive site and any infringement of the bans could easily lead to a total ban on all clmbing access.

Access Advice

The crag lies within a National Nature Reserve and is an important area of SSSI semi-ancient woodland with Special Protection Area (SPA) status. The Lake District National Park Authority (responsible for managing recreation at Chapel Head) and the BMC have worked closely together to develop the following good practice guidelines which should be followed by all climbers visiting the crag:

  • No access to cliffs north of central gully.
  • Please do not remove ivy or damage trees along crag base.
  • Take all litter home with you.
  • There are no toilets at Chapel Head - please be discreet.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

The restriction is signed and applies to the whole crag.

Update 20/5/20. The birds are currently feeding young so the restriction will remain in place until 30 June. If the birds fledge early or the nest fails, any update will be posted on this page as soon as we know about it.

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Guidebooks

Northern Limestone : Yorkshire, Cumbria, Lancashire

Northern Limestone : Yorkshire, Cumbria, Lancashire covers some of the best limestone crags in the UK including the big three of Malham, Kilnsey and Gordale. Alongside these titans are numerous other destinations that offer both sport and trad climbing throughout the grades, ranging from the intimidating walls of Blue Scar and Trow Gill to the long lines of newly-developed low to mid-grade sport crags such as Moughton Nab and Giggleswick South. Trad climbing is also well catered for on the walls and escarpments at the likes of Trowbarrow Quarry, Twistleton Scar, Attermire Scar and Witches Quarry.
More info
Anybody know campsites close to this crag?
mrajyandy - 19/Aug/14
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Climbs at this crag

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Name Grade Stars Type Logs Partner Ascents
These climbs you have climbed clean.
These climbs you have climbed by seconding or top-roping.
These climbs you have Dogged.
These climbs you Did not Finish.
Climbs are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate. Climbs can't be verified by a crag moderator, and they need more information to confirm it. Climbs are no longer climbable.

Moderators Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteers tomhull and Emilio Bachini