UKC

Climbs 401
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 64m a.s.l
Faces S

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Valley of the blind. Lion Rock. Cheddar © TimC123

Crag features

Sunshine until mid-afternoon (Pride Evans Cliff is too low down to see the sun in mid-winter). Mostly hard and steep climbing. Mixture of sport and trad.

Collection of small crags on the North side of the gorge near the village. Lion Rock, Pride Evans Cave, and The Remnant.

All feature mostly hard and steep climbing and a mixture of sport and trad.

Approach notes

Climbing is allowed year round on most cliffs on the North side though the access situation is sensitive, due to the high visibility of these crags and the risk of stones being dislodged.

Don't approach The Remnant from the car park directly below - follow the path from Lion Rock.

Avoid Prospect Tier and the bay to its right during summer.

Check online with the BMC regional access database.

Restricted Access

The north side of the Gorge is predominantly owned by the National Trust and mapped as Open Access land under the CRoW Act which give a right of access for climbers to use these crags all year. The Cheddar Gorge Access Map gives full details of climbing access throughout the Gorge.

The mapo references the latest guide to the Gorge - 'Cheddar Gorge Climbs' (M. Crocker, 2015), which has details of the popular crags on the north side and definitive details of restored routes on the south side. It is available from The Gorge Outdoors shop in Cheddar village, as well as other climbing and outdoor shops in the area.

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Nesting Birds

Dogs should be kept under control on a lead at any crags on the north side of the Gorge.

The National Trust require any new bolting to be cleared with them first - please contact the BMC Access Team if you are considering any bolting work and so we can help in any approach to the Trust.

Route heights in the guidebook for Easter Island are a bit iffy - I'd guess five metres too long for each of the sports routes.
whenry - 27/Feb/22
Note that these climbs also appear under Arch Rock on UKC
James Moyle - 14/Jun/09
Cycled past this today (5th july) and theres been a big rockfall. Seems to have taken out a lot of the right hand side of the wall. Probably safest to leave the entire thing alone untill it gets cleaned up.
remtherockclimber - 05/Jul/08
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Climbs at this crag

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