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Climbing inspiration, supported by you

Please help UKClimbing continue to provide varied and free content by becoming an official UKC Supporter. You can show your support in one of two ways; both come with rewards, and one includes discounted products from Rockfax.

Please help UKClimbing continue to provide varied and free content by becoming an official UKC Supporter. You can show your support in one of two ways; both come with rewards, and one includes discounted products from Rockfax.

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UKClimbing Team

20m.

Rockfax Description
Sustained and reachy climbing with hard moves right at the top. Approach using the fixed rope. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
WARNING: The 2nd bolt is about to FAIL. It is currently taped until further action is taken. DO NOT USE THE 2ND BOLT - ROUTE UNSAFE.

FA. Pete Oxley 28/Aug/1994

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List, Portland

Feedback

User Date Notes
The Jazz Butcher 7 Sep, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Fantastic route. Rock looks a bit dodgy from the ground but is really good and all naturally stuck together. Crux is harder for shorter climbers but there are options making it slightly harder.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Fantastic route. Rock looks a bit dodgy from the ground but is really good and all naturally stuck together. Crux is harder for shorter climbers but there are options making it slightly harder.
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Hidden 7 Sep, 2019 Lead RP
Hidden 7 Sep, 2019 Lead RP
marcduhig 27 Aug, 2018 Lead dog Linked to the side pull after the travers but before the hard top sequence. Working out moves on the Cruz but still have 3 to pull.
with Emanuele
Linked to the side pull after the travers but before the hard top sequence. Working out moves on the Cruz but still have 3 to pull.
with Emanuele
Dale Comley 26 Nov, 2017 Lead dog Wet and dirty in the first third. The top moves were next level lanky, so hard for 7c+ sub 6ft!
with Charlie Low, Nat Williams, Sam Brown
Wet and dirty in the first third. The top moves were next level lanky, so hard for 7c+ sub 6ft!
with Charlie Low, Nat Williams, Sam Brown
DDDD 13 Jul, 2013 Lead dnf Route is very dirty and falling apart, would be good moves otherwise.
with Sham
Route is very dirty and falling apart, would be good moves otherwise.
with Sham
La Mont 3 Sep, 2011 -
5 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High 8a
Mid 8a
Low 8a
High 7c+
Mid 7c+
Low 7c+
High 7c
Mid 7c
Low 7c
Votes cast 4
Votes cast 5
Style of Ascent
Lead
Not Set
Dogged
Redpoint
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest

The Schwarzechild Radius

Grade: 7c+ ***
(Blackers Hole)