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Rockfax Description
A great little route with a big reputation - best not attempted in humid conditions when the polish will make it feel a whole grade harder. Start at a corner-crack 5m left of the cave entrance.
Climb the slick corner-crack to a large ledge at 3m. Place some bomber wires and pull steeply up the wall then rock up left onto the steep slab. Continue up the fine steep corner directly above and pull onto a large ledge. Belay possible. Move up easily leftwards before climbing directly to the top. © Rockfax

FA. E.Rayson 1961.

Ticklists

West Country Climbs

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User Date Notes
lighty 10 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: pretty sure this was my 2nd lead,after the green mantle,a bit hairy commiting to the 1st bulge after the ledge,but once on top the climb was easier.still not 100% certain of the route.{maybe some of twang?}
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: pretty sure this was my 2nd lead,after the green mantle,a bit hairy commiting to the 1st bulge after the ledge,but once on top the climb was easier.still not 100% certain of the route.{maybe some of twang?}

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Route of Interest

Central Groove

Grade: HS 4b ***
(The Dewerstone)