Climbing at Chudleigh Rock is an inherently dangerous activity and climbers should be aware of the risk of personal injury and death. The landowner (The Clifford Estate), is very supportive of climbing at the crag, but requires that all climbers using the crag have 3rd party liability insurance cover up to £10 million. This is an integral part of BMC or MCofS membership or can be obtained elsewhere providing it gives the same level of cover.
Fixed equipment on the crag has not been installed by the Clifford Estate Company Ltd and is not the responsibility of The Clifford Estate Company Ltd. Please be aware that the fixed equipment is not checked or maintained by the Clifford Estate Company Ltd and the Clifford Estate Company Ltd accepts no liability for the death or injury of any person involved in climbing arising from fixed equipment failure.
Do not light fires - in the past this has caused damage to plants and the local bat colony, and could gain climbers a poor reputation if it happens in future.
Dates: 4 April to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
A nesting owl has been reported near Stalactite Direct - avoid this and nearby routes until the young birds have fledged (likely to be in mid-late June).
Rockfax Description
Beefy roof moves precede a linking of some of the best climbing on offer on this section of the crag. Start in the roof capped corner. Climb the short wall right of the corner to the roof and strenuously place good protection left of a poor peg. A spectacular traverse gains an overhanging groove that is followed to its apex, from where small pocket holds on the lip enable the slab above to be gained. Continue up Machete Wall to the overhang above its crux and then finish up the perplexing final crack and wall of Penny Lane. © Rockfax
FA. Roger Geartrick 1983.
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Grade: E4 6a ***
(Spekes Mill Mouth and Brownspear Point)