UKC

Climbs 59
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 47m a.s.l
Faces E

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Church crag © Betajunkie

Crag features

Steep limestone wall with with a variety of hold types holds can be quite rough. Some technical problems some powerful and a hard left to right traverse of the buttress. Plenty of linkups to go at. Problems from font 3 to 8A. The ledge is out on all problems bar one (The Pockets). Two pad stack seems fair considering the awkward height of which the sit starts are. 

Wentbridge wall consists of some steady bouldering with a tough traverse. Good for a warm up before going to the overhanging wall.

All problems for Wentbridge wall start matched in the break. This way adding more value to the problems.

Please read the access notes.

Approach notes

Park on the road by Wentbridge house. Walk up Jackson lane past the church then a house on you’re right where a footpath appears on you’re left. From here the crag comes into view. The large buttress has lots of easy warmups and traverses the main show is down the far left hand side. Be respectful and don’t walk through the church grounds, stick to footpaths and keep the noise to a minimum. Small groups advised.

Restricted Access

In order to maintain access, climbers should keep a low profile here:

  • Keep noise to a minimum
  • Pick up any litter
  • Be respectful - don’t walk through the church grounds
  • Keep to footpaths
  • Keep group size small
Visited in August and could only tolerate the hummingbird sized mosquitos for 40 minutes.
RockAlex - 13/Aug/21
They’ve been repeating with no change in difficulty.
Betajunkie - 20/Mar/21
They’ve been repeated with no change in grade there’s a positive finishing hold still.
Betajunkie - 20/Mar/21
The long talked about dodgy giant jug finish hold on several routes has finally gone and now resides on the floor. It is/was huge. Hope no one was hurt when it finally gave in. There is a small but good jug in its place but for the routes to the left especially inc used for glue etc it will be a much harder longer move.
AndyRogers - 09/Mar/21
The big hold to finishing as for the shield is gone but there is a hold left in it's place
Betajunkie - 06/Mar/21
Went yesterday and found a pretty sizable boulder had fallen from above the crag, it's worth being careful under here after all this bad weather lately!
Danmg123 - 25/Jan/21
Is this venue privately owned with access issues, or is there just the usual of use with respect?
AdventureRocks - 13/Nov/20
I went last night and unfortunately a key hold for many lines was been broken when I arrived. Its one of the key crimps, to the right of the arête, on Adrian Ledgway’s Wall. This makes a few of the eliminate lines, such as Used For Glue, much harder.
afx22 - 31/Jul/20
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