Climbs 6
Rocktype Mica schist
Altitude 355m a.s.l
Southeast Slab. © JLS
Crag features
Clach a' Bhreatunnaich (The Briton’s Stone) is a giant boulder abandoned by the forces of nature on the southern slopes of Ben Donich, high above the village of Lochgoilhead. Lore suggests it is one of the boundary markers between the western Celtic kingdom of Dalriada and the Brittonic kingdom of Strathclyde, which had its capital at Dumbarton Rock to the East.
This highball boulder, with good flat landings and precious little recorded climbing, awaits further development beyond the few lines that have been climbed on top-rope. New lines will almost certainly need cleaning on abseil before they could reasonably be attempted. There are three bolts on top of the boulder to allow rigging. The boulder offers many quality lines from Font 3+ on the slabby face (descent route) to much much harder on the overhanging face. The rock has been found to be "snappy" in some places so careful roped inspection and cleaning has to be recommended prior to any highballing.
Approach notes
The 3.2km approach takes just under an hour at an unhurried pace on foot. See suggested route on map in crag photos.
Park at forrestry access point 2km North of Lochgoilhead (NN 19818 03708). 50m from the access point turn right (South) and follow the well made forestry road for 2.7km through two sections of forrest plantation. On leaving the second of the plantations look for a white marker post on the left. (40min.) At this marker, leave the forestry road and head up hill (North) on a faint path through cleared plantation and new growth. At a fork after 165m take the more faint trail on the left which continues directly up hill running parallel to a small stream. 350m from the forestry road a wire fence is reached. Carefully climb the fence and find the boulder 75m further up and right.
Other more direct approaches from Lochgoilhead village are possible but while shorter in distance, these are likely to feel harder due to the gradients involved. Much of the route is on a very good forestry road. Cycling would much reduce the approach time, though the constant uphill gradient of the track is probably more suited to an e-bike than normal push bike.
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Climbs at this crag
| Name | Grade | Stars | Type | Logs | Partner Ascents |
|---|
These climbs you have climbed by seconding or top-roping.
These climbs you have Dogged.
These climbs you Did not Finish.
Climbs are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate. Climbs can't be verified by a crag moderator, and they need more information to confirm it. Climbs are no longer climbable.
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