A route of great character. It is unusual in that most of the climbing takes place inside the cliff! It is traditional to climb it on a wet day with a large team for added entertainment. Start by scrambling up to the base of the crag, to the right of a streaked wall, by a prominent rock arch.
1) 20m. Move up and right to a short wall and find a crack. Climb this to a ledge and move right to a tree at the base of the chimney.
2) 8m. Back-and-foot frantically to gain the ledge/path in the chimney on the right.
3) 20m. Walk along the base of the chimney to where the pathway ends. Climb up the chimney again to exit back into the daylight at a large ledge.
4) 15m. An exposed and polished final slab leads to a belay on the top of the crag. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
A historic route, somewhere between caving and climbing. The tradition states that it should be done at night in terrible conditions by a large party...
1.From the marble arch descend right to wall with an obvious crack. climb this and scramble up to another crack.
2. climb the crack exiting left onto ledges. Walk right to giant flake, belay at tree
3. Enter the darkness, in front of you is a tight chimney crack leading deep into the rock. Climb up to the chockstone and scramble deeper into the cliff over several short boulders. Emerge after 120ft into the light again by large flake.
4. Save the walk by abseiling off the flake (old rope around flake) or climb straight up to metal spike. Descend to left by large gulley.
A Lockwood 1908.
The troglodyte squeeze specials, North Wales Rock Graded List, Through Routes!, Unusual and Interesting Routes You Must Do VS- E2, ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs, AMC Uni Ticklist, Enigmatic Affection: The Dark Art of Chimneying, Thrutch and Clutch, Type 2 Fun, The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), The Great Gumclub Ticklist, The Ultimate SUMC Ticklist, Memorable Climbs, Hard Very Silly - wet troglodytes, George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist, Thank god I don't have to do that again, Easy peasy Northy Weesy, The (easy) Welsh Top50 Round, Hard Rock & Other Classics
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