20m.
The striking, golden arete between Brant Direct and Cockblock.
Climb the arete directly to gain a shallow groove. At the top of this, rock out right on a good foothold to join Cockblock at the wire slot.
Summon up everything you've got then head straight on up the arete via increasingly hard moves until a final, balancey slap gains a good jug just inside the 'safe zone'.
Much easier climbing leads to the belay on the big ledge.
Climb the arete directly to gain a shallow groove. At the top of this, rock out right on a good foothold to join Cockblock at the wire slot.
Summon up everything you've got then head straight on up the arete via increasingly hard moves until a final, balancey slap gains a good jug just inside the 'safe zone'.
Much easier climbing leads to the belay on the big ledge.
Alex Mason, unseconded 28/Oct/2018.
Ticklists
Pokey welsh puppies , Potential North Wales E8+ Headpoints
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Moza | 3 May |
Show βeta
βeta: There's a way to escape out left higher up (7B+) but the true line carries on slapping the arete w LH. With the Cockblock start I reckon it's one of the best routes around, amazing from bottom to top. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: There's a way to escape out left higher up (7B+) but the true line carries on slapping the arete w LH. With the Cockblock start I reckon it's one of the best routes around, amazing from bottom to top. |
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| Andy Moles | 20 Apr |
Show βeta
βeta: Outstanding climbing, every move is brilliant. For max quality I think it's best to start up Cockblock to the slots, probably makes no difference to overall difficulty but the independent start feels a bit squeezed. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Outstanding climbing, every move is brilliant. For max quality I think it's best to start up Cockblock to the slots, probably makes no difference to overall difficulty but the independent start feels a bit squeezed. |
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Guidebooks for Clogwyn y Grochan
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Route of Interest
Melody
Grade: E8 6b ***
(Craig Doris)