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Climbs 38
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 197m a.s.l
Faces S

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Little John is attracted. © andybirtwistle

Crag features

As with all of the quarries round here access is officially not allowed.

Generally good rock, routes up to 28m long, a secluded sunny venue with short access. Some routes can be dusty after rain, but generally does not detract from the climbing.

Approach notes

Leave Wirksworth on the Cromford Road. Turn left into Wirksworth Industrial Centre (Ravenstor Road), and at a mini-roundabout turn right - to a gate. The entrance is just in front, amongst some trees. The quarry is part of the National Stone Centre.

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Guidebooks

Peak Limestone

Selected guidebook covering the best trad and sport limestone crags in the Peak District.
More info
More Guidebooks:
www.sportsclimbs.co.uk (1995)

Out of print:
We were asked to leave today - something to do with the quarry being part of an SSSI. Never happened before but I suppose that there is a first time for everything!
roger whetton - 24/Oct/18
Got kicked out of the quarry today due to "dynamite being used in the creation of the quarry." I couldn't see any dynamite lying around
Choss king - 13/Aug/18
Got kicked off due to "dynamite being used in the making of the quarry." I couldn't see any dynamite lying around.
Choss king - 13/Aug/18
Shouldn't it be Colehill Quarry?
andybirtwistle - 18/Aug/15
Reminiscent of a sea cliff? Maybe needs reassessing as its cleaned up a lot recently.Good southern alternative to Horseshoe without the polish:)
andybirtwistle - 18/Aug/15
The quarry is in really good shape and access really easy. No hassle from anybody and even had a few walkers stop and watch a couple of climbs.
Climber1988 - 30/Jul/15
some rock fall including a bolt has happened on destitution on threedonia 6b+
goodboy - 26/Mar/12
P.S. Routes are well bolted here. Bolts next to cruxes and no random run-outs. Which is nice.
Fiend - 08/May/09
Climbed here May 2009, knowing full well access is banned, but also heeding the comment below and my partner's suggestion that the access situation wasn't that bad. As below, no warning signs and no interference despite a few teams at the quarry. Also heard that negotiations have fizzled out and only one person at the Stone Centre had any serious objections to climbing. Anyway, it's an okay evening venue, not one of the better lime sport quarries, but still some fun routes and a good workout.
Fiend - 07/May/09
Climbed here July 2008 , not knowing access is banned. There are no signs up anywhere and you can just walk in. It was a damp weekday evening and we were pretty discrete. It looks like a lot of the bolts have recently been replaced and there has been some removal of loose rock. A good local venue and worth a visit if you are in the area.
Pilch - 18/Jul/08
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Climbs at this crag

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