UKC

Climbs 67
Rocktype Culm
Altitude Tidal
Faces S

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A team on the classic culm route Crimtyphon (E2) at Compass Point. © Mike Hutton

Crag features

Sunny and sheltered, with some very serious routes (involving little protection and on unreliable rock) up to 110ft. Routes of note are Sugar Magnolia (HVS 5a) a well protected route following a crack initially with a nice technical top out. Samantha just to the right is another good route (E1 5b). Other routes worth trying include Tydomin (HVS 4c) and Westerlation at S 4a which has limited protection at it's start but is a pleasant route. Crimtyphon is the route of the crag and is very much still worth doing after the rockfalls of 2013/14. Good solid rock and plentify belays if cams are used before topping out.

Following rockfalls in the winters of 2013 and 2014, all routes to the landward side of Crimptyphon, are very serious with poor rock, unreliable protection and loose finishes'.

The metal abseil stakes are seriously corroded and not safe for use, and the ridge to the tower is extremely loose.

Approach notes

Head for the southern arm of Bude Haven. Drive along the narrow lane on the S bank of the Bude canal: at the end there is limited parking by a turning circle.
Walk through the white gate, towards the Compass Tower 100m beyond. Walk south along the coast path and then follow a path down to the pebble beach at the southern end of the bay and head back north to the crag. Descent by accessing the ridge of the crag from the Compass Tower is very dangerous following the collapse of the ridge. A low tide walk in from the beach to the north is another option: park as mentioned and walk down the cobbled ramp to the pebble beach and walk around the promontory.

Update this Crag
Last updated on 14/Jul/2024

No Access Issues

A large rock fall occurred on the right side of the crag in 2014, significantly changing all routes to the right of the descent ramp including the popular Crimpyphon and Caravanserai. The rock that remains on this section of the crag is still very unstable and any routes on this section of crag are likely to be mostly or entirely different to those that previously existed and very loose. There is no current up to date guidebook, tread very carefully!!

 

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Last update: 10/01/2018  

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The whole of the top of the cliff right of the descent ramp (I.e. Snapping Bubblies and rightwards) is in a very dangerous condition. This section should be avoided.
Mark Kemball - 20/Apr/15
Path along the ridge falling down and treacherous. Belaying on crimptython is probably no longer possible. Won't be long until the whole cliff has fallen down!
Joel Perkin - 22/Mar/15
Crymtyphon pegs in good nick Summer 2008. Top route.
Owen W-G - 03/Mar/09
The routes are pleasant for the grade. Those on the seaward section are solid, those on the right section a little snappy. These routes have almost certainly all been climbed before. The area was used by a local activity centre 20 - 25 years ago who probably placed the bolts found at the top of both pieces of rock and the pegs who's rusted remains can be seen along the bottom of the seaward section.
Mark Kemball - 17/Feb/09
To Matt, Why not ask Leigh McGinley the next time you are in Joe Brown's as it is his route.
bob wightman - 29/Mar/04
Has any one any ideas of the state of the pegs on crymtyphon, i climbed it a few years ago, and they were in poor condition then. what is the situation with re pegging it?
Matt - 20/Aug/03
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