UKC

32m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A stunning little expedition featuring good rock, holds and a solid top-out. Start just right of Quality Street.
1) 4b, 17m. Good holds lead up and right to a crack. Keep going on the same line past a ledge to the faultline. Traverse right to a stance on the arete just above the faultline.
2) 4b, 15m. The narrow groove above gains a solid top-out. © Rockfax

FA. R.J Crewe, K.Winkworth 29/Mar/1970.

Ticklists

Connoisseur's Classic Rock, Swanage A-Z, West Country Climbs, 50 Best HS Routes in the UK., Orange Spot Swanage, SW Climbs - Swanage, #RadTradGirl UK HS/VS climbs Easter 2017, The Ultimate SUMC Ticklist, Dorset, South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.), Dorset Routes that are worth doing

Feedback

User Date Notes
hp8g12 5 Nov, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Abseil shit me up - I’m just never sure about stakes. I lead P1, went too far to the left initially although this wasn’t really an issue as the holds are fine (pro a little ropey in places). Enjoyed the climbing once in the crack/flake system. Traverse was pants. I almost took a picture of the blue DMM nut at the belay - bombers. P2, well lead by Liam, seemed shorter than described although lovely positions high on the rock. Pretty cool.
 
Show beta
βeta: Abseil shit me up - I’m just never sure about stakes. I lead P1, went too far to the left initially although this wasn’t really an issue as the holds are fine (pro a little ropey in places). Enjoyed the climbing once in the crack/flake system. Traverse was pants. I almost took a picture of the blue DMM nut at the belay - bombers. P2, well lead by Liam, seemed shorter than described although lovely positions high on the rock. Pretty cool.
JimOakleyAdventures 1 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Ab in using stake and small wire at back wall. 2hrs either side of LW Swanage tide. Traversing start was fun and over the small overhang. Found small ledge next to large 2ft block that had old CAM in it. Inserted wire in and pulled - oops This dislodged 2ft square block across my left left shoulder, bruising arm and broke left hand metacarpal - owww. Landed well away from Jess. Found three other points to set up belay with bloody hand belayed her up. This block was in direct line of next pitch Not anymore Take care on top pitch
 
Show beta
βeta: Ab in using stake and small wire at back wall. 2hrs either side of LW Swanage tide. Traversing start was fun and over the small overhang. Found small ledge next to large 2ft block that had old CAM in it. Inserted wire in and pulled - oops This dislodged 2ft square block across my left left shoulder, bruising arm and broke left hand metacarpal - owww. Landed well away from Jess. Found three other points to set up belay with bloody hand belayed her up. This block was in direct line of next pitch Not anymore Take care on top pitch
mishabruml 16 Jun, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: big loose block just at the foot of the groove after the belay. can be avoided but maybe not at HS, its not very pleasant or particularly safe
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: big loose block just at the foot of the groove after the belay. can be avoided but maybe not at HS, its not very pleasant or particularly safe
JoeCoxson 15 Jun, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Big loose block midway up the top pitch, watch out
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Big loose block midway up the top pitch, watch out
JimOakleyAdventures 21 May, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Great route. Using the 1ft stake next to back wall and some other pro abseiled down -2hrs before Swanage LW. Calm seas and minimal wind/waves Top of first pitch good climb with plenty of pro and good holds. However, whilst setting up mid belay a 2ft square block pulled off and fortunately didn’t pull me off but punctured hand and block whizzed safely 10m away from belayer into sea. ! ???? Final pitch is good also but check holds before pulling up.... 80 mins from start of abseil to both at top.
 
Show beta
βeta: Great route. Using the 1ft stake next to back wall and some other pro abseiled down -2hrs before Swanage LW. Calm seas and minimal wind/waves Top of first pitch good climb with plenty of pro and good holds. However, whilst setting up mid belay a 2ft square block pulled off and fortunately didn’t pull me off but punctured hand and block whizzed safely 10m away from belayer into sea. ! ???? Final pitch is good also but check holds before pulling up.... 80 mins from start of abseil to both at top.

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Votes cast 60
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Votes cast 57
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Route of Interest

Temporary Lifestyle

Grade: HS 4b ***
(Cave Hole)
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