Climbs 20
Rocktype Rhyolite
Altitude 547m a.s.l
Faces SW
Crag features
A large rambling crag, 60-70m high. This is adventurous terrain and few people climb here. It is a fabulous spot, gets whatever sun there is, and apart from a few drainage lines it dries quickly.
The rock is fundamentally sound, Moelwynau ryolite. Very rough, but sometimes hard to protect. There are a few large and scary looking blocks which could do with a little encouragement down hill if this can be done safely for people and wildlife.
The crag has been used by ravens and kestrels for nesting, and there are Merlin in the area as well. Please avoid in the nesting season if birds are present. There is abundant lemon scented fern and beech fern in dark crevices wherever you look. The routes need climbing. Zenturion is the VS to go for, with a breathtaking final pitch. Fence post wall has some excellent hard, steep single pitch routes, and an unfinished project. See details here https://midwalesclimbing.com/2019/01/08/craig-ddu-moel-siabod-bouldering/
It is a little visited crag, but with some excellent mountain adventure routes. Go for it, and explore!
Approach notes
The crag is approached from the parking area in the Pont Rufeinig / Roman Bridge valley, as for Craig y tonnau.
Walk up the lane and follow the footpath leaving the lane at the house called Ffridd. This winds around but eventually reaches a forest track. Turn right here and follow the track along to a reservoir (un-named on the OS map). The crag is clearly visible above. Walk over the dam, up the hill side of the forestry, then follow the left hand side of the fence steeply up the hill to the crag. 1hr 15 mins or more.
No Access Issues
Ravens and kestrels nest here sometimes. Please avoid if the birds are in residence.
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Climbs at this crag
| Name | Grade | Stars | Type | Logs | Partner Ascents |
|---|
These climbs you have climbed by seconding or top-roping.
These climbs you have Dogged.
These climbs you Did not Finish.
Climbs are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate. Climbs can't be verified by a crag moderator, and they need more information to confirm it. Climbs are no longer climbable.
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