UKC

Restricted Access

A crag for the experienced only - great adventures and stunning routes, but some loose sections and scary run-outs as well.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 February to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

The restrictions for this cliff were reviewed in Spring 2021 and restrictions now only apply to the  following routes: 

Duration of the restriction - February 1st-June 30th. (nesting Ravens and Choughs).

Routes that fall under the above restrictions are:

     - Tell Your God To Ready For Blood

     - Chosstokovitch

     - Error Of Judgement

Previous restrictions around the Noble Savage area have been removed  due to no evidence of nesting birds for many years.

40m. A steep and worrying climb based on the section of wall between the flake of Crucial Condition and the corner/offwidth/chimney of Error of Judgement.

Climb the stepped corner of Error of Judgement for approximately 10m until the corner becomes vertical. Arrange protection and step right onto the steep grey wall following a rising, left to right ledge system (feet on the ledge). A poor blade peg is passed before reaching a grey/red scoop. Poor protection in the form of a very small wire is the only protection. Exit the scoop left, on good, solid holds, before a few steep and worrying pulls lead to better holds and gear (crux). Climb directly up into the base of an overhanging groove which is followed, passing a large brown crunchy pocket and then another bigger pocket. Steep moves out of the large pocket lead to a pillar and rest. Climb the wall directly above the pillar to a break. Fill the break with as many small to medium cams as you have before a few moves right lead to a great big pocket. Pull directly up out of the pocket to a small break and pull up again to a small flat ledge. A left finger traverse, and a few tricky moves, finds you (hopefully) on the big hold in the middle of the wall. A few more strenuous pulls, on good solid holds, leads to the top.

Nick Bullock and Mick Lovatt 08/Aug/2019.

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Guidebooks for Craig Doris

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High E8
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High 6b
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Route of Interest
Strawberries

Grade: E7 6b ***
(Craig Bwlch y Moch (Tremadog))

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