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Climbs 180
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 122m a.s.l
Faces SE

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On the crux of imminent Departees © spidey

Crag features

Many good routes in the middle and higher grades, up to 100ft in height. A low lying cliff that dries quickly after rain, and tends to have much better weather than Snowdonia.

Not to be confused with Craig-y-Forwen, which is at a totally different location (World's End).

Approach notes

IMPORTANT: The BMC has negotiated a new access agreement with the local farmer, and it is essential that climbers park ONLY in the designated place in the locked field above the crag, accessed from Trawscoed Road (see BMC RAD for details and gate code).

 

 

Restricted Access

The current access situation at Craig y Forwyn is as follows

  •  CENTRAL SECTION- (Great Wall, etc.) From just West of Staircase Gully (at the route The Fox), where a smooth wire fence reaches the base of the crag, to Purple Haze– the new owners of Plas Newydd Caravan Park have made it be known thay they cannot currently give consent  for ACCESS OVER THE LAND OR ACCESS FOR CLIMBING ON THIS LAND.  There are new owners and negotiations are underway - please avoid until these negotiations have been finalised, which for various reasons could be long term. 
  • RIGHT HAND SECTION (from Purple Haze eastwards towards Two-Tier Buttress, the occupiers of this section of the cliff has recently changed (in 2016) . The new occupiers of this section have told the BMC that they are happy for climbers to this section but again strictly no dogs, all litter to be removed and keep noise to a minimum.  As yet there is no permission to remove any vegetation and as the sitre is an SSSI it would be illeagal to do without formal consent from NRW. 
  • LEFT HAND SECTION (starting from approx. 50 metres left of Staircase Gully, facing the crag to the extreme left side of the crag) -climbing permitted. Formal consent has been obtained to allow the removal of vegetation (ivy and invasive cotoneaster only) from rock-climbs on this section of crag only.
  • Note: The Natural Resources for Wales (NRW) has some concerns about tree clearance and vegetation clearance on and below the crag. The whole crag forms part of an SSSI and the BMC asks climbers not to clear vegetation or improve the path below the crag. Removal or damaging any vegetation without written authority from the NRW and the landowners could lead to criminal proceedings at this site. You should also be aware that sound carries in this valley, so please make every effort not disturb the peace of local residents, i.e. keep your voices down when belaying etc.
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