Climbs 187
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 107m a.s.l
Faces SE
On the crux of imminent Departees © spidey
Crag features
This extensive natural escarpment provides superb traditional cragging in a sheltered, sunny and tranquil setting. Routes are up to 40m in height and invariably feel steeper than they look, first-time visitors will rapidly begin to appreciate the local name of 'Craig y Forearm'!
This is a truly beautiful area in which to climb and peace and solitude is the norm. The crag is sheltered from the wind due to its valley location and shelter provided by trees.
Approach notes
Turn off at junction 23 Llandulas; turn right at a roundabout and then first left, signposted A547 Old Colwyn, and continue gradually uphill for about 1.2 miles until a left turn can be made onto Highlands Road opposite a bus shelter. Follow this through the village of Llysfaen and 400m after the school, turn left onto Trawscoed Road at a triangle of grass. Continue along this lane (which soon becomes a narrow track) for around half a mile until a metal gate on the left, at a right-hand hairpin. Go through the gate into the field and park to the side of the road.
Restricted Access
The current access situation at Craig y Forwyn is as follows:-
- CENTRAL SECTION- (Great Wall, etc.) From just West of Staircase Gully (at the route The Fox), where a smooth wire fence reaches the base of the crag, to Purple Haze. There are new owners and negotiations are underway. While some low level climbing activity appears to be ongoing without any objection, the landowners are very clear that they do not formally give permisson for climbing here and any issues will put a stop to any long term solutions to allow climbing.
- RIGHT HAND SECTION (from Purple Haze eastwards towards Two-Tier Buttress, the occupiers of this section of the cliff has recently changed (in 2019) . The new occupiers of this section have told the BMC that they will not object to climbers on this section but again strictly no dogs, all litter to be removed and keep noise to a minimum. Tthere is no permission to remove any vegetation and as the whole cliff is an SSSI it would be illegal to do without formal consent from NRW.
- LEFT HAND SECTION (starting from approx. 50 metres left of Staircase Gully, facing the crag to the extreme left side of the crag) -climbing permitted. Formal consent has been obtained to allow the removal of vegetation (ivy and invasive cotoneaster only) from rock-climbs on this section of crag only.
- Note: The Natural Resources for Wales (NRW) has some concerns about tree clearance and vegetation clearance on and below the crag. The whole crag forms part of an SSSI and the BMC asks climbers not to clear vegetation or improve the path below the crag. Removal or damaging any vegetation without written authority from the NRW and the landowners could lead to criminal proceedings at this site. You should also be aware that sound carries in this valley, so please make every effort not disturb the peace of local residents, i.e. keep your voices down when belaying etc.
- Do not park below the crag - access should only be form the agreed parking area above the crag. Follow access instructions in the current editon of North Wales Limestone guidebook (or see below).
| I'm afraid even the limited new access (as per recent update) looks doubtful. We climbed on the r-hand edge of the crag last week, parked as per BMC guidance and were unobtrusive to the point of silence. Half way up Sangfroid (a legitimate route, as we understood it - outside the central area and beyond the stile, well to the right of Purple Haze) we were forced to lower off after an unseen individual hurled some quite unpleasant sustained abuse at us from below the trees. We left without confrontation, but as a local who started climbing in 1988 and has therefore never climbed on this crag before, it's a pretty distressing state of affairs! simongwyn - 30/Jun/09 |
Climbs at this crag
| Name | Grade | Stars | Type | Logs | Partner Ascents |
|---|
These climbs you have climbed by seconding or top-roping.
These climbs you have Dogged.
These climbs you Did not Finish.
Climbs are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate. Climbs can't be verified by a crag moderator, and they need more information to confirm it. Climbs are no longer climbable.
Moderators Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteers michael burrows and Andy Moles