Altitude 107m a.s.l
On the crux of imminent Departees © spidey
This extensive natural escarpment provides superb traditional cragging in a sheltered, sunny and tranquil setting. Routes are up to 40m in height and invariably feel steeper than they look, first-time visitors will rapidly begin to appreciate the local name of 'Craig y Forearm'!
This is a truly beautiful area in which to climb and peace and solitude is the norm. The crag is sheltered from the wind due to its valley location and shelter provided by trees.
Turn off at junction 23 Llandulas; turn right at a roundabout and then first left, signposted A547 Old Colwyn, and continue gradually uphill for about 1.2 miles until a left turn can be made onto Highlands Road opposite a bus shelter. Follow this through the village of Llysfaen and 400m after the school, turn left onto Trawscoed Road at a triangle of grass. Continue along this lane (which soon becomes a narrow track) for around half a mile until a metal gate on the left, at a right-hand hairpin. Go through the gate into the field and park to the side of the road.
The current access situation at Craig y Forwyn is as follows:-
|I'm afraid even the limited new access (as per recent update) looks doubtful. We climbed on the r-hand edge of the crag last week, parked as per BMC guidance and were unobtrusive to the point of silence. Half way up Sangfroid (a legitimate route, as we understood it - outside the central area and beyond the stile, well to the right of Purple Haze) we were forced to lower off after an unseen individual hurled some quite unpleasant sustained abuse at us from below the trees. We left without confrontation, but as a local who started climbing in 1988 and has therefore never climbed on this crag before, it's a pretty distressing state of affairs!
simongwyn - 30/Jun/09