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180m, 6 pitches. Approach down a rusty steel cable then descend the steep grassy slope to a rock ledge, abseil possible if desired (tat in place Sept 2017).

1) 40m. Traverse easily right across broken ledges to a large ledge on the arete, a rusty peg signals the belay.

2) 25m, 4a. Traverse up and right on ledges to the arete. Step up, and climb 10 m to a large ledge level with a flat topped spike.

3) 35m, 4c. Continue traversing right until below small overhangs. Continue to traverse along the easiest line beneath the overhangs moving up until a peg is reached. Move left here along diagonal ledges to a bay on the arete. Note the "perched block" described in the CC guide appears to have gone seaward.

4) 20m, 4b. Climb to a niche at the base of the steep groove, to clip to remnants of a peg, which can fortunately be backed up with nuts and a sling to the right. Step right and try to refrain your gag reflex as you pass a mountain of guano on a ledge. Step up and move right to an exposed belay on the arete.

5) 30m, 5a. Climb the roof above the belay (easier that it appears) to a large ledge. Move to the right hand end of this and up (two pegs) to a large flat hold on the right. Use this to gain a large grassy ledge, and ascend to the next, smaller grassy ledge. Move right using some sneaky holds to a large grassy bay, belay.

6) 30m, 4b. Head up the short black wall of the right hand side of the belay ledge. Follow the natural line up to steep grass and belay blocks.

You can either a) continue along the ridge (easy) b) abseil to the base of the quarry (careful not to jam your ropes) or c) walk/scramble down grassy rakes to the quarry base.

P Crew, I McNaught-Davis 04/Apr/1966.

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List, HVS Adventures, MIA logbook must haves!, CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain, Ultimate HVS ticklist, The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), High Quality Adventure routes, 100 Best Wales Mid Grade Climbs, Glyn's North Wales mid-grade ticklist

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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 18
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 15
Votes cast 15
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest

Avernus

Grade: HVS 4c ***
(Trwyn y Gorlech (Lleyn))