UKC

Rockfax Description
A long mountain adventure. Never desperate, with stunning views and varied climbing. The route involves some easy scrambling in the mid-section and isn't sustained, but the short tricky sections are interesting and the entire route is over 300m in length. A huge gully drops away beneath Pinnacle Wall. Start 15m above the toe of the buttress that forms the left side of this. The route is described in sections rather than individual pitches.
1) 130m. Pleasant, pocketed slab climbing leads to a ledge at 30m. More slabs lead to a tricky groove, above which more easy slab climbing leads onto a large ledge beneath a steep wall.
2) 22m. On the right is the crux groove. A polished corner leads to a large detached block. Continue past this to gain easier ground.
3) 75m. Scramble along paths and vegetated ground to reach the crested ridge.
4) 35m. Traverse the apex of the alpine-esque ridge passing two prominent gendarmes.
5) 60m. Follow the ridge on the right to gain the summit. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Connoisseur's Classic Rock , A grand easy welsh day out , North Wales Rock Graded List , UK's best Diffs and V.diffs , Puttrell's Progress , ROCKFAX Style Top 50: North Wales , North Wales 100 Classic Climbs , ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs , Snowdonia - long routes and classic climbs , AMC Uni Ticklist , North wales road to ruins HVS , Preparation climbs for a Cuillin ridge traverse , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , The Big Easys , High Quality Adventure routes , The Ridges of England, Wales and Ireland , Big Routes , The Long Routes , Solos , The Big Easy Mountain Route Club , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , Mountain Rock , Easy peasy Northy Weesy , The (easy) Welsh Top50 Round , Hard Rock & Other Classics , 2021 , Snowdonia Mountain Walks and Scrambles - Mark Reeves , Dream Challenge (The BIG ONE) , Wales Multipitch , Sarah’s N Wales Wishlist , No you're a punter , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 , Dewimpification , British Rock Tour April '24 , UKC Other Rock Types Top 20 Wishlist Climbs , North Wales - routes to do with Kloe

Feedback

User Date Notes
redg99 14 May Show βeta
βeta: A large right hand flake hold detached from the rock face in my hand nearing the top of the monster slab pitch (2nd pitch.) Broken flake shows signs of erosion. I have removed from the route but be wary of other loose holds. Otherwise outstanding, sustained climbing with a few spicy line variations should one choose. Size 7 DMM walnut & 25cm draw left above the crux pitch if anyone is able to retrieve and return, many thanks
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A large right hand flake hold detached from the rock face in my hand nearing the top of the monster slab pitch (2nd pitch.) Broken flake shows signs of erosion. I have removed from the route but be wary of other loose holds. Otherwise outstanding, sustained climbing with a few spicy line variations should one choose. Size 7 DMM walnut & 25cm draw left above the crux pitch if anyone is able to retrieve and return, many thanks
Daniel_Ischebeck 20 Nov, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Bit of a slip \'n\' slide in places, can\'t say I was dissapointed to have lost rock paper scissors for the lead.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Bit of a slip 'n' slide in places, can't say I was dissapointed to have lost rock paper scissors for the lead.
milanboez 13 Jun, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Brilliant proper mountain route. Much more actual sustained climbing than the comments (and view of the route) would suggest. A couple of sections very hard for VD. Bit of a sketchy ending (we got the rope back out). Mega day out on a fine day and a well deserved top 50.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Brilliant proper mountain route. Much more actual sustained climbing than the comments (and view of the route) would suggest. A couple of sections very hard for VD. Bit of a sketchy ending (we got the rope back out). Mega day out on a fine day and a well deserved top 50.
LJJ77 25 Jul, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: I think we went off to the left onto a thin lip for your feet and a wall, cam protection at your feet but as you make a few thin moves up the chances of decking out grow Felt significantly harder than the crux especially with it being thin on gear (just the cam) It brings you out just below the cracks leading up to the crux ledge
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I think we went off to the left onto a thin lip for your feet and a wall, cam protection at your feet but as you make a few thin moves up the chances of decking out grow Felt significantly harder than the crux especially with it being thin on gear (just the cam) It brings you out just below the cracks leading up to the crux ledge
Rob Evans 19 May, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Got rained off on the 15/5/22, had to leave a couple of slings to abb off. If any one could return them there would be a reward. evs91@hotmail.com. Thanks.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Got rained off on the 15/5/22, had to leave a couple of slings to abb off. If any one could return them there would be a reward. evs91@hotmail.com. Thanks.
useful 26 Apr, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: P1. 25m to the party Ledge. P2. 8m to below the squeeze. P3. To top of the Slabs. P4. Corkscrew and back wall. P5. Long walk! Include the first rock step. P6. Alpine Ridge P7. Walk to the next. P8 some steep steps to the walkway, rubbish gear at the belay. P9. Home and dry!
Show beta
βeta: P1. 25m to the party Ledge. P2. 8m to below the squeeze. P3. To top of the Slabs. P4. Corkscrew and back wall. P5. Long walk! Include the first rock step. P6. Alpine Ridge P7. Walk to the next. P8 some steep steps to the walkway, rubbish gear at the belay. P9. Home and dry!
Rhys lewis 27 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: The route out after crossing the gendarmes. Isn’t pleasant.
Show beta
βeta: The route out after crossing the gendarmes. Isn’t pleasant.
Wil Treasure 10 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: It's a grassy ramble with a couple of pitches, it feels "Alpine" in the sense that it's generally short tricky steps. A fun day out, best treated as a tricky scramble I think. A couple of short steps where rock shoes make life a little easier.
Show beta
βeta: It's a grassy ramble with a couple of pitches, it feels "Alpine" in the sense that it's generally short tricky steps. A fun day out, best treated as a tricky scramble I think. A couple of short steps where rock shoes make life a little easier.
FallingBrick 22 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Large boulder about to come loose half way up last ridge section (22-7-20).
Show beta
βeta: Large boulder about to come loose half way up last ridge section (22-7-20).
mattdarli92 16 Mar, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Pitched 2 sections, short roped others and soloed some! Mint route
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Pitched 2 sections, short roped others and soloed some! Mint route
bengy89 22 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Lovely mountain day. Lost car keys somewhere on the route though...please drop me a message if you find them!!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Lovely mountain day. Lost car keys somewhere on the route though...please drop me a message if you find them!!

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High HVD
Mid HVD
Low HVD
High VD
Mid VD
Low VD
High HD
Mid HD
Low HD
Votes cast 215
Votes cast 213
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Lockwood's Chimney

Grade: VD ***
(Clogwyn y Bustach)

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