Rockfax Description
A long mountain adventure. Never desperate, with stunning views and varied climbing. The route involves some easy scrambling in the mid-section and isn't sustained, but the short tricky sections are interesting and the entire route is over 300m in length. A huge gully drops away beneath Pinnacle Wall. Start 15m above the toe of the buttress that forms the left side of this. The route is described in sections rather than individual pitches.
1) 130m. Pleasant, pocketed slab climbing leads to a ledge at 30m. More slabs lead to a tricky groove, above which more easy slab climbing leads onto a large ledge beneath a steep wall.
2) 22m. On the right is the crux groove. A polished corner leads to a large detached block. Continue past this to gain easier ground.
3) 75m. Scramble along paths and vegetated ground to reach the crested ridge.
4) 35m. Traverse the apex of the alpine-esque ridge passing two prominent gendarmes.
5) 60m. Follow the ridge on the right to gain the summit. © Rockfax
Ticklists
Connoisseur's Classic Rock , A grand easy welsh day out , North Wales Rock Graded List , UK's best Diffs and V.diffs , Puttrell's Progress , ROCKFAX Style Top 50: North Wales , North Wales 100 Classic Climbs , ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs , Snowdonia - long routes and classic climbs , AMC Uni Ticklist , North wales road to ruins HVS , Preparation climbs for a Cuillin ridge traverse , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , The Big Easys , High Quality Adventure routes , The Ridges of England, Wales and Ireland , Big Routes , The Long Routes , Solos , The Big Easy Mountain Route Club , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , Mountain Rock , Easy peasy Northy Weesy , The (easy) Welsh Top50 Round , Hard Rock & Other Classics , 2021 , Snowdonia Mountain Walks and Scrambles - Mark Reeves , Dream Challenge (The BIG ONE) , Wales Multipitch , Sarah’s N Wales Wishlist , No you're a punter , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| LJJ77 | 25 Jul, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: I think we went off to the left onto a thin lip for your feet and a wall, cam protection at your feet but as you make a few thin moves up the chances of decking out grow Felt significantly harder than the crux especially with it being thin on gear (just the cam) It brings you out just below the cracks leading up to the crux ledge | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: I think we went off to the left onto a thin lip for your feet and a wall, cam protection at your feet but as you make a few thin moves up the chances of decking out grow Felt significantly harder than the crux especially with it being thin on gear (just the cam) It brings you out just below the cracks leading up to the crux ledge |
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| Rob Evans | 19 May, 2022 |
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βeta: Got rained off on the 15/5/22, had to leave a couple of slings to abb off. If any one could return them there would be a reward. evs91@hotmail.com. Thanks. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Got rained off on the 15/5/22, had to leave a couple of slings to abb off. If any one could return them there would be a reward. evs91@hotmail.com. Thanks. |
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| useful | 26 Apr, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: P1. 25m to the party Ledge. P2. 8m to below the squeeze. P3. To top of the Slabs. P4. Corkscrew and back wall. P5. Long walk! Include the first rock step. P6. Alpine Ridge P7. Walk to the next. P8 some steep steps to the walkway, rubbish gear at the belay. P9. Home and dry! | ||
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Show beta
βeta: P1. 25m to the party Ledge. P2. 8m to below the squeeze. P3. To top of the Slabs. P4. Corkscrew and back wall. P5. Long walk! Include the first rock step. P6. Alpine Ridge P7. Walk to the next. P8 some steep steps to the walkway, rubbish gear at the belay. P9. Home and dry! |
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| Rhys lewis | 27 Sep, 2020 |
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βeta: The route out after crossing the gendarmes. Isn’t pleasant. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: The route out after crossing the gendarmes. Isn’t pleasant. |
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| Wil Treasure | 10 Aug, 2020 |
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βeta: It's a grassy ramble with a couple of pitches, it feels "Alpine" in the sense that it's generally short tricky steps. A fun day out, best treated as a tricky scramble I think. A couple of short steps where rock shoes make life a little easier. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: It's a grassy ramble with a couple of pitches, it feels "Alpine" in the sense that it's generally short tricky steps. A fun day out, best treated as a tricky scramble I think. A couple of short steps where rock shoes make life a little easier. |
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| FallingBrick | 22 Jul, 2020 |
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βeta: Large boulder about to come loose half way up last ridge section (22-7-20). | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Large boulder about to come loose half way up last ridge section (22-7-20). |
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| mattdarli92 | 16 Mar, 2020 |
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βeta: Pitched 2 sections, short roped others and soloed some! Mint route | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Pitched 2 sections, short roped others and soloed some! Mint route |
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| bengy89 | 22 Jul, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Lovely mountain day. Lost car keys somewhere on the route though...please drop me a message if you find them!! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Lovely mountain day. Lost car keys somewhere on the route though...please drop me a message if you find them!! |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Craig Yr Ysfa
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Table Direct
Grade: VD ***
(Cadair Idris - Penygadair)