Altitude 159m a.s.l
Leech Direct summer 88. © cam1401
Traditionally a top-rope venue on 10m routes, and an abseiling venue for local Outdoor Centres, this crag is becoming increasingly popular with boulderers.
It faces north-east and is often green and damp in winter and midgy in summer, so a dry spring or autumn is best for conditions on the dimpled basalt. It can be perfect, but only rarely.
No chopping of trees - this is unacceptable as this is an environmentally sensitive area housing a delicate habitat of flora and fauna, so please, if cleaning, just brush off holds which are necessary.
This list has been updated with boulderers in mind, a lot of stars removed from the SMC guide, as many problems have returned to nature and there really are only a few definite 3 star routes/problems!
The bloc problems are usually clean for the first few metres and are usually downclimbed/jumped off from first significant jugs. The top-outs of the crag problems can be very mossy and dirty. if you are considering solo finishes, cleaning on abseil may be advisable.
For top-roping the main crag there are a number of larger trees that can be used for natural protection, and a line of fenceposts approx 10-20m further back from the edge of the crag. Note that in some cases you will need at least a 40m static rope to rig a two-point anchor off the fenceposts. A ground anchor could also be used.
On the Blanefield road (Cuilts Rd or Station Rd, depending whether you driving from west or east) between the Carbeth Inn and Strathblane, 200m west of the West Highland Way. By bike/foot from Milngavie station for 5km. Car park on the layby by a stile and wall next to sign for Public Path. After entering through gate for Public Path, cross boggy fields on left or walk back up the road to cross a stile onto the wooded ridge above the crag, descend at easy gully at end of line of oak trees 20m before the first big pine. There are also other easy descents further along the crag.
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