Climbs 190
Rocktype Basalt
Altitude 159m a.s.l
Faces NE

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Leech Direct summer 88. © cam1401

Crag features

Traditionally a top-rope venue on 10m routes, and an abseiling venue for local Outdoor Centres, this crag is becoming increasingly popular with boulderers.

It faces north-east and is often green and damp in winter and midgy in summer, so a dry spring or autumn is best for conditions on the dimpled basalt. It can be perfect, but only rarely.

No chopping of trees - this is unacceptable as this is an environmentally sensitive area housing a delicate habitat of flora and fauna, so please, if cleaning, just brush off holds which are necessary.

This list has been updated with boulderers in mind, a lot of stars removed from the SMC guide, as many problems have returned to nature and there really are only a few definite 3 star routes/problems!

The bloc problems are usually clean for the first few metres and are usually downclimbed/jumped off from first significant jugs. The top-outs of the crag problems can be very mossy and dirty. if you are considering solo finishes, cleaning on abseil may be advisable.

For top-roping the main crag there are a number of larger trees that can be used for natural protection, and a line of fenceposts approx 10-20m further back from the edge of the crag. Note that in some cases you will need at least a 40m static rope to rig a two-point anchor off the fenceposts. A ground anchor could also be used.

Approach notes

On the Blanefield road (Cuilts Rd or Station Rd, depending whether you driving from west or east) between the Carbeth Inn and Strathblane, 200m west of the West Highland Way. By bike/foot from Milngavie station for 5km. Car park on the layby by a stile and wall next to sign for Public Path. After entering through gate for Public Path, cross boggy fields on left or walk back up the road to cross a stile onto the wooded ridge above the crag, descend at easy gully at end of line of oak trees 20m before the first big pine. There are also other easy descents further along the crag.

Can whoever is chopping birch trees from the top, please consider not everyone wants the trees coppiced. It's not necessary as the moss will grow anyway, plus I lost a sound belay tree FFS
John S. Watson - 13/Oct/21
A birder told us there are kestrel chicks in a nest, after wide eyed wall but before the terror block. He reckons they’ll be gone by mid June. The nest can be seen from the ground on a reasonable ledge. Please take care not to disturb. Thanks folks
TaylorTastic - 07/Jun/20
Update. Please be aware, there is a nest again on the overhang above craigmore corner.
Colin McKerrell - 02/Jun/20
There is currently an owl nesting inside Sabre Crack - so best avoid both Sabre and Stiletto Crack for the now.
Lamb - 25/Mar/15
Took a visit to Craigmore today - A great looking wee crag… but dirty. A few chalk marks here and there but will take a fair bit of traffic to keep it clean. Bailed rather than hang around to clean the lines but I think I might make it more of a project late on in the year.
Stevie989 - 10/Jul/14
Could be I'm just noticing now, but I'm seeing more and more tooling scratches in the area from the Niche to Hot Dawg. Whoever has been scratching up Craigmore, quit it.
kwoods - 16/May/14
Best to get Craigmore after a few days of dry weather when the moss dries out. The faces receive the best of the sun in the morning through spring and summer. Gets very wet mainly through seepage and some climbs are polished. A very star-happy venue, but some good climbing: Layback Crack and Craigmore Corner areas are all worth attention, but protection is generally limited on the harder routes.
kwoods - 16/Apr/12
Guidebook is very star-happy about this place! Some of the two or three star routes wouldn't get any elsewhere. That said it would have been a lot better if cleaner, was very mossy and dirty. Still, some good climbs.
AMo - 19/Apr/08
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Climbs at this crag

Name Grade Stars Type Logs Partner Ascents
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