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Climbs 35
Rocktype Basalt
Altitude 100m a.s.l
Faces SE

Crag features

A very quiet crag with short routes which because of a steep run-off feel higher.
Needs several days to dry after rain but can be warm in the sun.

Belay stakes installed above the Clam area, 15 metres back. Can be used for Farewell Groove to Gremin's Groove taking in the main buttress.

In the summer the slope below the crag has a fair bit of bracken to the south end which would make access a bit harder. Remember to bring some tools for bushwhacking!

Approach notes

Park in the layby at NS 52482 77302 on the A809 heading north just before the hill up to the entrance to the Golf Club car-park.

Go through the gate and turn south, heading over the disused stone bridge over the stream (there really is a path over the bridge).

Head up the hill, following sheep tracks to the right of the small outcrop, heading for the second pylon.

Pick up a quad-bike track around the second electricity pylon then double back up the track around the north end of the plantation.

The crag lies to the west of the woods on the hillside with the quarry at the south end.

Guidebooks

Out of print:
Took a walk up here with the dog/kids this weekend to see what it was like. Took some photos which are now uploaded. There looks like there could be some fun routes, but they are quite short, and it would certainly need a bit of a clean up, not to mention bushwhacking some bracken out of the way on the approach. There's also no obvious natural anchors above the routes so if you wanted to stay safe and top-rope you would have to bring your own belay stakes or ground anchors. If you want a wee project then go for it, but I would suggest trying Craigmore or Pillar Crag (in that order) if you want something more straightforward in this area. Both of these can be protected with top ropes to suit current COVID-related stay safe guidelines.
drconline - 15/Jun/20
If you're interested in giving this place a clean please give me a shout, I'd be keen to help.
Brendan - 17/Aug/14
Went for a look this week, there are some good problems and the crag has a nice outlook but it is really overgrown. Anyone wanting to climb here will have to do some cleaning first. Far from the Maddening Crowds looks fantastic for anyone wanting a 7C project. It has a layer of lichen at the moment but it looks like it would be easy to clean on an ab rope.
Brendan - 01/Jun/14
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Climbs at this crag

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Name Grade Stars Type Logs Partner Ascents
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