Rockfax Description
A truly fantastic and popular excursion up this cliff, which was amongst the first to be explored in this region. Nearly every pitch has some good climbing and the rock is generally excellent. Most of the belays have some fixed pegs and the hard sections also have some fixed gear which helps keep you on route. Start from a small edge and spike belay below a tree 8m above.
1) 6a, 40m. Go up to the small tree and then continue up towards a right-facing corner. This is hard and there are a few pegs along the way, especially on the crux. The pitch is about 5c if you use a peg as a foot hold. Belay on the ledge above.
2) 4b, 30m. Easier climbing leads up until you can go left towards a flake/groove. Climb this and exit left to belay in a tree.
3) 5b, 30m. Go up to a faded thread and then follow the rampline up and right towards a corner. Layback up the wide flake to gain the corner and follow this to a ledge below a steep section.
4) 6a, 25m. Layback and bridge your way up the corner, past a peg, and follow easier ground rightwards to a narrow ledge bellow a steeper section.
6) 6a, 28m. Layback up a flake to a niche then traverse right to a crack and climb this to a bulge. Move right here with difficulty - peg above. Pull over by a small bush to reach the belay.
7) 4b, 30m. Move up and right across a slab and into the large groove. Follow it to a ledge at the top of the 'Arrow Head'.
8) 5c, 20m. Move to the left end of the ledge and climb the crack - awkward - to easier ground. Head up and left to a belay in a crack.
9) 3c, 35m. Go over easier ground and trend left to belay below a harder steeper groove.
10) 4a, 35m. Climb the groove then traverse left across slabs to cairns at the start of the descent path and belay. Un-rope and scramble the 60m to the true summit, or follow the descent path down. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The Agero Buttress "Espolón del Agero " was the first open climbing route in Cueto Agero and is the most classic and repeated way to the summit of Cueto Agero. It is a classic style route in which most of the climb is on corners.

A scramble III is required to reach the first pitch, in a few areas protected with a cable. First 100m of the route.

L1 - Easy climb until you get to the corner, which is the crux of the route (about 5m of 6a) a bit polished but well protected and with two pitons. Two pitons that should be reinforced, about 5m above the corner mark the belay point. About 40m long grade as 6a.

L2 – The next pitch consists of consistent IV climb for about 35m, this pitch has quite a lot of vegetation until you reach the flake. At the top of the flake you will find and oak tree, past it to the left until you reach a bolt and a piton for your belay (sharing belay with the route Water Wall).

L3 – About 35m of V+ climb comprising short corners (one of them with a "rare" move of V+ that can be protected on an existing piton), Keep going until you get to the big overhang corner where two old pitons mark the belay

L4 – Short pitch about 25m of 6a climb where the main goal is to overcome the overhang corner, bridging technique is required here. Good belay skills are required as the fall can be dangerous. Another two pitons higher up mark the belay point.

L5 – A beautiful pitch which traverses up and towards the right which can be easily protected with friends. The belay can be done using a piton a rock bridge. 25m long of 6a climb

L6 – Straight up and about three meters higher turn right towards the easy terrain until we reach the spike where you can belay on two pitons. About 30m of V climb.

L7 – Consistent V climb for the next 35m going straight up, the protection and some gear will be required to set the belay.
L8 – The climb goes towards the left of the belay with some nice moves which can be well protected, keep going until you find a piton, it´s recommended to install the belay here. About 30m of IV climb
L9 – From here scramble up until you reach some stone marks guide you to an escape or otherwise continue to the top. About 50m III+ / IV to the top.
Follow the gully on the left for the descend which will take you to the base of the peak.

TIME: Between 3 and 5 hours

Ticklists

100 Spanish multi-pitch classics

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